VeNoM   Netherlands

Yamaha fzr600
(for 89-99 all USA AND others with MIKUNI carburetors)  

Factory Pro developed one of the quickest fzr's on the west coast, back in the day. Dave Deveau (AMA 600 Supersport winner Sears Point, 1989) rode it in many club races with amazingly consistent wins.
We developed the carb kits that outperformed the dj and Yamaha GYT parts, according to Vance and Hines.

Clean smooth running has always been a trademark of Factory Pro tuning. It's the EC997 dyno that eliminates the problems that the dynojet dynos leave behind.

To spiff up an older bike, the usual route is"
emulsion tubes (for excessive low rpm richness)
Carb kit (to allow proper tuning)
Ignition Advance (to bring back that "new bike" crispness)
Shift Kit (to make the 600 shift as good as, or better than a new bike)

All in all, adding the above (properly installed) will get you a bike that runs far better than a new bike did.


Factory Pro's
Supersport Carb Recal kit
#1 Internet choice.
Factory Pro's
Pro Shift Kit
Much improved shifting!
Factory Pro's
Ignition Advance Kit
The only source in the world!
Factory Pro's
Nickel plated emulsion tubes (needle jets)

Finger Adjustable "Long Boy" extended Yamaha fuel screws

Long Boy Fuel Screw Kit 

pn: 3020m1

with 4 new extended screws, springs, washers and o-rings.
1. Choose your shipping method


"Long Boy"
Finger adjustable extended Fuel Screw

Frustrated with trying to find an "almost 90 degree"  screwdriver to fine adjust your fuel screws for best idle and cruise?
Use Factory Pro's new "finger adjustable" fuel screws to adjust fuel screws for best throttle response. Traveling to high altitude? It's easy to lean out the lowend temporarily.

Make your life easier!

Remove old short stock fuel screws, old o-rings, old washers and old spring. The o-ring might be stuck in the carb, so, take a light and make sure it's really out if it didn't come out with the screw (or you can't find it after you took out the screw)
Use a small bent wire to pull it out if it doesn't drop out. Keep the old parts for "spares".

Each screw assembly comes with:
4 Long Boy fuel screws 
 4 new o-rings
4 new washers
4 new springs


Factory Pro nickel plated FZR600 Emulsion Tubes (needle jets)


 pn: CRZ-EMU-100160k
yam: 3EN-14141-90-00)
FZR600     89 to 99

$132.00  set of 4

NEW Shipment!
Oct 2017

1. Choose your shipping method

Ok - The average fzr600 has accumulated a large number of miles - and by now, most of them have carbs on them that have really funky super-rich low rpm running "feature".
Runs well when cold - but a stumbly mess when warmed up?

Sound like yours?
Or - you are the best guy or the new guy at a shop, lowered the fuel level, dropped to smaller than stock pilot jets and put the needle in the leanest position - AND taken out the stock plastic 2.5mm plastic spacer and still can't figure out why the customer's bike is still spitting out more fuel than a blown up middle eastern gas pipeline?

99% of the time, on an fzr600 with over 10,000m / 15,000km on the speedo, the needle jet orifice part of the "emulsion tube" probably looks like an egg.
(needle jet wear, all carbs - click here)

That will allow too much fuel to rise up into the bore of the carb and pretty much drown out the engine's power and cause sloppy rich, sloggy running.... (Wow -  Sounds like yours?)

Factory Pro analyzed and redesigned replacements with some notable, 20th century improvements - particularly NICKEL plating.

A suggestion? Before you start trying to make your FZR run right or even attempt to properly jet, replace these parts.

Just got back from the first ride with my new Factory Pro emulsion tubes installed on my FZR600.   Thanks for a new motorcycle!  It is unbelievable how smooth the bike is now, no more hiccups from 2-4k rpm.  I thought they were expensive at first, but they are worth every penny.  Very VERY easy install.  Thank you for making such a terrific product!
Yours truly,
Nathan Curtner

emuwr3.jpg (9351 bytes)

The "arrow" shows what is considered "bad" wear.

 Factory Pro Supersport Carb Recalibration Kits

Standard drop-in carb kit
(use with the stock airbox)
1. Choose your shipping method


Adds more low-end / midrange, if the proper main jet is selected, more top-end power. Easy to install and tune - no slide >Our most popular fzr600 kit.

CRB-Y02-3.0    $139.95
w/o filters

1. Choose your shipping method



$139.95 + ~ru-2852 air filters
Config 30 carb kit

(for when you have removed the  airbox and are running pod filters)


1. Choose your shipping method


Requires removal of stock airbox and running K&N or equivalent individual air filters. Otherwise, it is a drop-in kit. Low-end response is as good as, if not better than stock carb tuning.

Works well - If you actually tune the fuel level (as is the case with the above "10 Series" and such), Low-end power is actually as good as or even better than with the stock airbox installed.

Urban legend that "the lowend goes away" when you remove the airbox on the fzr's are utterly and absolutely, completely the result of poor choice in jet kit brand, and after that, tuning ability / desire / motivation - which pretty much comes down to setting float heights

CV Carb Tuning instructions


Air filters, BMC


FI-BMC-17407SS   $59.95
in stock
Factory Pro BMC Street Filter

NEW Factory Pro BMC Street air filter

Cleanable cotton gauze type filter.
Carb recalibration is not required, but even a stock bike will perform better if the carbs are blueprinted. That's a fact.

Float bowl gaskets

reference: 3gm-14997-00-00
$32 for 4
1. Choose your shipping method


Ignition Advance Kit

RTR-YAM-1    $89.95
1. Choose your shipping method


This Factory Pro FZR 600 kit advances the timing 5 degrees.

With stock engines with stock compression ratios, there is more power everywhere.

Part throttle power is better - helping corner exit speeds. Improved in-town drivability.

Fills in the holes in the powerband.

Every fzr600 that we do here gets one.

Factory Pro Shift kit

(sample pic only - not fzr parts)

SHFT-PRO-YAM-1     $139.95

inc Microbearing Detent Arm, F-Pro Shift Spring and clutch cover gasket. 

(add $20 for ceramic bearing)

1. Choose your shipping method


Almost EVERYBODY rebuilding an fzr600 installs this kit.

Make shifting MUCH quicker and virtually eliminate missed shifts. This is exactly the same kit that Yamaha Racing has used. Huge shift action improvement.

The kit requires the removal of a 27mm clutch nut - so, you'll need a:
Deep 27mm socket and an Air or electric impact wrench
If you insist on not having an impact wrench, you'll need / appreciate.......
A friend to hold the rear brake on while you loosen the 27mm nut while the bike is in 3rd (ish) gear.....

Every time I say - "I'm going to discontinue that kit." You guys, start calling and buying them again! OK- OK!! One more year!  2003!!!
OK, OK, OK!!! 2005, too!!   2013!!:-)  Marc
User's comments


COV-Y01-RH-KT    $179.95


Billet Engine Cover

RH Cover for the fzr400/600, NOT complete with steel "Skidz" cover insert. Absolutely the strongest cover you can buy - and has the highest strength / weight ratio available. Individual replacement outer cover available direct from Factory.


I'm out of the little Steel inserts and won't be making more -
I'll sell the cover, with stainless steel screws and gasket - but without the steel insert for
only $100.


1. Choose your shipping method

Hybrid Ceramic Wheel  Bearings

Hybrid Ceramic Bearing set special
(Includes the hard to find sprocket carrier bearing)

reg $442.10

6 bearing kit
2 front and 3 rear wheel and 1 sprocket carrier bearing set

pn: BE-HYCER-Y02/fzr600
1. Choose your shipping method
Hybrid Ceramic Wheel  Bearings

SIX  bearing set

In theory, these bearings should:
Increase mileage slightly
decrease rolling resistance noticeably
coast farther
improve top speed a bit
and acceleration a little

Tough steel races and almost  friction free ceramic balls.

Bearings have rubber seals that are easy to remove if desired.
Alternator Removal Kit  $429.95
Removes 3.5 lb. alternator rotor (NO charging system) and replaces it with a total loss 8oz. trigger rotor, similar to Yamaha Race Kit unit. Not for street use. Fits FZR400, 89-90, FZR600(US), 89-99.


TL-float height gauge
1. Choose your shipping method

The only way to accurately measure float heights. Works on nearly every carburetor.



Yamaha factory manual recommended "measure the fuel level" method of setting float heights got you down?
Takes too long?
Spent a day to get them "correct" and the bike still runs too rich at low rpm?

Hmmm....setting them to so specified fuel level doesn't mean that you are actually giving the bike what it wants. It just means you are doing a good job of setting the fuel levels equally.
You can get an "A" in school for mechanical proficiency - but your bike still runs rich......

So.... Let's get back to the real world, where we don't have a day to "try" a single fuel level to see if it's good for the bike and let's just spend 20 minutes setting the fuel level by the float height measurement.

We can get elegant later - Right, now, let's rough them in - If the floats are in reasonable shape, the float height and the fuel level measurements will be pretty damn close for tuning purposes.


All fuel levels set at .5mm above the fuel level line, and it's too rich at low rpms isn't even close to how much better the bike would be if you set the floats at 25mm (even if they are a silly 1/4mm different, carb to carb...)


float height method aprox. equivalent FUEL LEVEL fuel delivery
22mm +4.0mm above fuel level line 22mm RICHER at low rpm
23mm +2.5mm above fuel level line 23mm
24mm +1.0mm above fuel level line 24mm
25mm -0.50mm below fuel level line 25mm
25.5mm -1.25mm below fuel level line 25.5mm LEANER at low rpm

I listed out RICHER and LEANER in those natural hot and cold colors for you - BUT!!!

That only means that the carburetion will get richer or leaner, especially at low rpm and cruise - It NOT to say that the carburetion WILL BE too rich or too lean FOR YOUR bike if you set it to 22mm or 25mm...

If the bike is too rich at low rpm, check to see what the floats are set at - if it's too rich and they are set at 23mm, change them to 24mm and try that. If that's better, but, not enough, try 25mm.
The most that I've gone was 25.5mm and then, long ago discovered that the needle jet orifices (aka emulsion tubes) were worn out -

Generally, I would say that if you set the floats at 25mm, and it's still sloppy rich at low rpm and cruise, especially when it's hot - Replace the emulsion tubes (needle jets).
See above for tubes.



Below is a Reprint with additions and corrections
(some SR links will become nonfunctional as SR changes their site periodically)

The Ultimate High Performance Motorcycle Magazine


This Old Bike: Fizzy Pop
Performance Upgrades for Yamaha's FZR600

By Andrew Trevitt
Photography: Andrew Trevitt

It seems like just yesterday that our man Kento won the Willow Springs ARRA championship on an FZR600, while geek-boy Trevitt was trying his hand at endurance racing on an FZR, too. Really though, both editors are showing their gray hairs, and it was way back in 1989 that the little Yamaha was first introduced. We borrowed this 1996 sample from Erica Polites, who brightened up the Primedia dungeon for a short time before moving on to work at Vance & Hines. Erica's bike was in desperate need of a little TLC, and well, who can resist a little tweaking here and there?


This bike was yearnin' for some luvin'. With almost 16,000 miles on the clock, the FZR was looking pretty tired. We were amazed at how good it cleaned up though-that layer of grime must have acted as a protectant.

First up was a trip to the dyno, where the poor FZR was running so rich it wouldn't even pull the SuperFlow drum. A phone call to Factory Pro's Marc Salvisberg (800/869-0497, and we had a Ti Pro jet kit and some new emulsion tubes (Yamaha OEM parts), which evidently are prone to wearing and cause the rich condition. Salvisberg also sent along a shift kit and an offset ignition key to advance the timing.

Correction: The needle jets (commonly called "emulsion tubes") were new Factory Pro design, using modern, updated concepts, not Yamaha supplied parts - they retail for about $100 set. They are not Factory Pro HDJ style, but, like the HDJ, feature a tougher, plated surface, rather than the  softer brass as the originals and should last at least as long as the original needle jets, even with normal carb body slide guide wear. )


The FZR had a K&N filter already installed, but ran quite rich when first run at the dyno.
We installed a Factory Pro jet kit ($130) along with a set of new emulsion tubes. Float height was set at 24mm, 3mm lower than stock.

(correction: $129.95 is actual retail price for the carb kit and $96 is for the new needle jets / emulsion tubes and it's a lot easier to measure with one of these!)

The K&N oil filter has a handy stub welded on which accepts a socket-easy on, easy off.

We ditched the Vance & Hines slip-on that came installed on the bike, and replaced it with a Vance & Hines (562/921-7461, SS2R full system. Substantially quieter than the worn-out canister, the pipe does away with the California-model's EXUP system and really updates the look of the bike. Otherwise, we didn't mess with the emissions stuff (cams, black box, charcoal canister and air injection system).


Those stock mirrors sure are ugly. We tossed them and bolted on a set of Targa (800/521-7945, Monza mirrors. Not only do they improve looks, you don't see as much of your elbows compared to the stock pieces. The flat mirror (as opposed to conventional convex mirrors) takes a little getting used to.

What appear to be the original plugs were replaced with Denso (888/96-DENSO, iridium plugs. The tiny iridium tip is extremely hard, which means the new plugs should last a long time. These plugs are used as OEM equipment in many new bikes.

Wow, radial tires for the FZR ($133 front, $185 rear)! Bridgestone's BT-010 lineup includes something for the 18 X 4.0 inch rear rim, although the clearance to the brake arm was pretty tight with the 150-size bun. Note the smaller inside diameter of the exhaust-it's quiet.

Maintenance-wise, the oil and air filters were replaced with K&N (909/826-4000, www.knfilters) products, and the crankcase filled with Yamalube 20W40 four-stroke oil ($3.69/quart). Denso supplied us with a set of iridium-tipped spark plugs ($13 each).



This offset key for the ignition rotor advances the timing by a few degrees. The kit from Factory Pro ($89) includes a puller for the flywheel.

(additions: It's actually 5 degrees and requires 1/2" air impact wrench to install, link)

The front calipers were treated to a good cleaning and new DP sintered pads ($38 per caliper). DP's standard pads ($34) went in the rear.

Turning to the chassis, the FZR's rim sizes are a holdover from pre-radial days, with 17" front and 18" rear wheels. All models of the 600 have a 3.0" wide front hoop, and while the original 1989 model had a 3.5" rear hoop, later bikes had a 4.0" wide rim. Bridgestone's (800/465-1904, excellent BT-010 tires are offered in a wide range of sizes, including 110/70-17 front (identical to stock) and 150/60-18 rear (slightly wider than stock) tires that fit on the FZR's wheels. Clearance to the brake stay arm is minimal; if you fit a 150-series rear tire, pay close attention to this detail.



A mixture of 15- and 20-weight Yamalube fork oil ($4.95/pint) stiffened up the pogo-stick front fork and made the bike less pitch-happy on the brakes.
One often overlooked maintenance item is lubricating the brake lever's pivot. The FZR's bushing was totally dry, and a dab of grease made a surprising improvement to brake feel and control.

DP Brakes (800/369-1000, provided a set of SDP HH+ sintered pads (the company's supersport offering which features quick break-in and high friction) to replace the two-thirds-worn front pads, along with a set of standard pads for the rear (for long life and excellent wet/dry performance). The FZR already had a set of braided stainless steel brake lines up front, but some fresh Yamalube brake fluid was pumped through to improve feel at the lever.


While we didn't update the suspension on the FZR, there are many options available in that department, as the FZR has a long racing history. Up front, the fork tubes were flushed and filled with thicker oil to stiffen the front end a bit, but otherwise we left well enough alone. The next step would be a replacement shock and stiffer fork springs along with Race-Tech's cartridge emulators. Going further, many FZR owners have replaced the stock swingarm with an FZR400 unit (lighter and stronger) and added a fork brace up front.

Once the little FZR's makeover was complete, the engine ran noticeably smoother and crisper than previously. It feels much more responsive, and pulls harder in the midrange. The Vance & Hines exhaust is nice and quiet when puttering about town, only getting progressively louder the more revs are used. Our SuperFlow dyno is offline temporarily, but we'll have a chart showing pre- and post-modification traces in the next installment of This Old Bike.

The DP brake pads are a huge improvement, and up front the new pads offer the usual sintered-pad characteristics of good progressivity and feel, along with excellent stopping power. The front brakes felt quite grabby at first, but surprisingly it turned out to be caused by the lever's pivot, which was dry and binding. A quick clean and a spot of grease made a big difference there. Out back, the DP standard rear pads were initially grabby, but now broken in provide good feel and feedback.

Even with the thicker front fork oil, the front end still dives under braking more than we'd like. Rider's weighing more than about 150 pounds will most likely need stiffer springs along with 20-weight fluid instead of the 15/20-weight mix we used. Still, for almost 16,000 miles of use, the FZR's fork and stock shock work surprisingly well. It didn't take much to have the Yamaha looking and performing better than new, and even though the FZR600 is three generations old now, it's still a fun, sporting package. According to the Blue Book (, used FZR600's range from $2300 (1989 model) to $4620 (1999 model).

To slightly firm up the front end, and what we did when we successfully raced the bike with David Deveau (1989 600cc AMA Supersport Sears Point Winner) was to cut 4 full coils off the "tight end" of the stock fork spring and re-space the preload to get reasonable ride height. If I remember correctly, we cut off about 1.25" )4 coils) and made 1.5" PVC spacers. For fine tuning ride height, we stacked an appropriate number of US quarters (.25 coins) to adjust. I seem to remember that "$1.25's worth of preload and maybe we need to go to a "buck-fifty" was a common setting and a great secret code!)

When we finished Erica Polites' Yamaha FZR600 for last issue's This Old Bike, our dyno was temporarily unavailable and we couldn't include a chart with the story. Plus, we had some jetting woes to sort out, as the bike was running rich with even stock jetting. The final dyno run shows a peak of 75 horsepower, good for a California-spec FZR, and way better than what we saw before the modifications. Needless to say, Erica is happy with her transformed FZR.

Addition: The VHR SS2r STREET exhaust is about as restrictive as the stock muffler, as far as the carburetor is concerned -
The best main jets for best power are def. not larger than stock, unless you have modified the airbox, when they will be larger than stock.
The VHR SS2r system with STREET muffler sounds very nice, looks pretty classy and does add 3-4 TRUE HP, which is a significant improvement on a typically 60 to 63 TRUE HP bike. We don't use dynojet dyno randomly inflated numbers, or even try to approximate their numbers.
The VHR systems were our choice on commercially available systems - they worked better on the 600 than anything else that we tested while we were racing the fzr. Marc


Got an old bike?

We're looking for older sportbikes in the Los Angeles area to feature in This Old Bike. If you have a mechanically sound bike you feel would be a good candidate, send a picture and details to Sport Rider, Attn: This Old Bike, 6420 Wilshire Blvd., Los Angeles CA 90048-5515 or e-mail

This article originally appeared in the August 2002 issue of Sport Rider.



Bike pics from owners!

Show us your pics!

Les Gaskell's UK model 89 FZR600, before

After 05/2005

Marc McKinley  York, PA  04/2005

Steve Voss's Rebuild Project   Sept 2013   Before

VeNoM   Netherlans, before

VeNoM  after (Sept 2005)
Last spring I built the 1989 FZR 600 in the attached photos for track days
and vintage endurance events. I fitted Factory Pro emulsion tubes, carb
tuning kit, ignition advance keyway, shift kit, dumped the airbox and fitted
individual filters.  I also fitted a Penske/Ohlins shock, fork emulators,
520 chain/sprocket conversion kit and sintered front brake pads.  I was
particularly pleased with your products they worked 100%.  
The bike won its class in its first endurance race at Mosport (Canada)
Later one of my younger friends raced it a short circuit event and he
finished second on his first ride on the bike.  Next year the bike will have
a full fairing.
The only problem experienced was some clutch slip.  I am having the steel
clutch plates bead blasted as in the past this has helped with similar
problems.  I also wondered if you know of or could recommend any stiffer
clutch springs for the bike? 
Peter Sheppard








Absolutely NO carb parts sold in California.

New and improved Suzuki Teka SFI  2

with new TPS display and "MMT" Memory Module Tuner

Finally - Quick, easy, cost effective Suzuki tuning with no expensive "add-on boxes"
Suzuki cruisers and sportbikes

Please click here for more info

Contact Factory Pro
M-F, 9am - 5pm, Pacific time, -7 or -8 GMT

800 869-0497
 USA and Canada

415 883-5620

parts information

EC997 dynamometer information

Product Support /Tech SECTION
click here


Mailing / Shipping address:

Factory Pro
101c Roblar Drive
Novato, CA

And most importantly
Restart back at the HOME page and click on the red box in the top left to find the bike that you want parts for...
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EFI and Carb Tuning - Most all FI and carb tuning

by Wheelsmith Racing

Flight Training - train with AMA race winner Todd Harrington.

The Harringtons own American Flyers, one of the most established flight training facilities in the USA.

 8 locations

The Rich Oliver Mystery School will help you discover your hidden inner strength. 
It will challenge you. It will teach you a new way of thinking, and a new way of riding. You can take your riding to an exciting new level!  

We use a variety of proven drills and training techniques. 
Practicing these techniques with our Yamaha dirt track trainers will enhance your abilities both on the track or the street.  

It doesn't matter what you ride or race, the Rich Oliver Mystery School improves everyone's skill level and mindset!

WW2 vintage flying Special

Book a sightseeing flight over the Wine Country or a Kamikaze aerobatic flight or a biplane flight over famous Sonoma Raceway, the Golden Gate Bridge and the San Francisco Bay for one or two during the spring and get a free souvenir t shirt!
(NEW!  Ask about the P-40 flights!)

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Just tell them that you saw this on the Factory Pro website!
Northern California's most unforgettable flying experience.  No experience required.  Open weekends!

The extension of the laboratory for engines of the Swiss Federal Institute of Technology was completed in about 1935. Its architect was Rudolf Otto Salvisberg (1882-1940). He had a successful career in Berlin but returned to Switzerland after the advent of the Nazis. His architectural style was somewhat similar to that of Erich Mendelsohn. The staircase of the laboratory is in normal use but well preserved.
Edited to the tunes of Chemical Residue by Herbie Hancock.