08-19 (20-23) Suzuki GSX1300R Hayabusa

Billet RACE Velocity Stacks
Shift STAR kit for the Busa
Graphic10.jpg (67862 bytes) Teka  SFI Suzuki Fuel Injection Adjusting Tool S36 Ignition Advancer Kit


Superflare Billet Velocity Stacks

(sample pic, Hayabusa, oem: 13882-41G00)

up to  +3 to +5 and more midrange hp
(if properly tested)
Easy 30 minute install, no drilling or cutting required

pn: VEL-S31-4545-v50    $399.95

MIDRANGE power bias

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Hayabusa Superflare RACE V Stacks

Marc Salvisberg of Factory Pro designed and tested. Patented clipless design.

HEALTHY +3 to +5
True HP gain at 9000 rpm when measured under a real load on a stock engine. We did not change fuel injection tuning.

Bonus -
The High Velocity Superflares bring back that sweet, but discrete, high rpm intake "how
l" that a well tuned engine should have.

Note: All testing done under fully loaded dyno conditions on EC997 Dyne systems to get proper HP production. Testing done on dealership level dynos "inertia" loading may appear to be lesser or greater amounts of power.
What works best under "inertia" dyno load is rarely what works best in the real world - That's why we never use common dealership level dynos for testing or feedback.

Drop-in them in an hour. Ride the bike.

(sample pic, not of 08-17 Hayabusa)

pn: VEL-S31-2525-v50    $429.95

High RPM power bias



SHORT Busa Superflare V Stacks
High RPM Power bias

(sample pic only - actual stacks are shorter)

(20mm to 30mm) High rpm bias short stacks - for extending the powerband past where the stock bike tapers off in power at high rpm. Use for modified engines with extended rpm.

Does NOT improve lowend and midrange. Not bad, but I like the 45mm stacks better for street and Wednesday night drags. Better midrange and lowend.


We have a pretty cool ECU Reflash!


Jim Vest

Shift kit for MUCH better and quicker shifting



Evo Shift STAR, F-Pro Shift Spring, shift cover gasket

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August 27, 2013

Price Allen I know, I get it. But after dealing with a notorious transmission in Hayabusa's, got the Factory Pro shift star and went GP. Not a burp, ever again.

Factory Pro's
 Shift STAR kit

Banish the "Busa Boot Shift" forever.

Includes Factory Pro's AWESOME Marc Salvisberg designed Detent Star - Totally changes the rough shifting the Busa's are well known for into the sweetest, smoothest shifting bike in town AND the quickest non-airshifting bike at the strip - you'll think you bought a different bike.

Better / quicker 1-2 shifts.
Virtually eliminate missed shifts - up and down.
Easier to find neutral.
Quicker 3rd through top gear shifts.
Perfect for drag racing and street.

Works with or without undercut transmission. Works with and without an air shifter. It makes a "foot" shift an extremely quick event - Almost eliminate a missed 2nd gear shift (though if you try, you can still miss it...)

 In fact, I'd try the Factory Pro Shift STAR Kit before I pulled the engine down to  "fix" the gear dogs - as long as the gears aren't damaged so much that the gears engage and then pop out at high rpm  - that's symptom of rounded gear dogs.

Factory Pro designed, refined, CNC machined, heat treated DETENT STAR.

Makes shifting quicker and more positive - "virtually" eliminating missed shifts. The stronger detent spring rotates the shift drum quicker and the gears are more likely to engage under quick shift conditions - and "lazy" shifts work well, too -
The closest to a "paddle shifter" for a motorcycle that you will ever find!!


B King Shift STAR Install notes:

Installation requires countershaft sprocket removal. Impact wrench recommended
8mm box wrench and socket set Most newer 12 point  8mm wrenches are thin enough to work in these close quarters.
Does not require case splitting.
Estimated shop time: 1.0 to 2.5 hours
Suggest to do when replacing chain and sprockets.

Remove the countershaft sprocket.
Loosen every bolt on the shifter cover.
Remove every bolt that you can get to.
There will be one or two bolts that the frame will be in the way.
Don't have to grind the frame......
Reach back, behind the cover and there will be one or twp small alignment dowels that are still stuck in the engine case. The height of the dowels is why you can't remove the cover (with the screw still installed)
Use needle nose pliers or "your choice of tools" to lift them out towards you.
Then, screws will have enough clearance to slide sideways, with the cover - and you can get to the STAR and Detent Arm.

It's possible that some individual frames may be bent and welded very slightly differently, but we haven't seen one, yet.

INSTALLATION SHEET, pics and more detail

Hybrid Ceramic Wheel Bearings


2 bearing kit

front wheel only

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Hybrid Ceramic Wheel  Bearings

2 front wheel bearings

Tough 52100 steel races, rubber seals and lightweight, almost  friction free, silicon nitride ceramic balls.

Bearings are pregreased and ready to use.
Bearings have rubber seals that are easy to remove if desired.


Teka SFI - THE solution for quick fuel injection changes


Teka SFI Fuel injection tool
base unit - accessories extra

800 869-0497

works on Boulevards, DL's, SV's, TL's, gsxr's, Busa's till at least 08!

Hook it up - richen or lean it -
unhook and ride.

30 seconds.

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Graphic10.jpg (67862 bytes)

  SFI 2  Suzuki Fuel Injection Adjusting Tool

You say you had some "custom" map and your Busa still chugs around town, black pipes, chuffs of black smoke when you snap the throttle?

Take control of YOUR bike's tuning.

Taking the tuning industry by storm.

Easy to tune the multiple bikes with the same, single unit - Improves low rpm over pc's and stock!
Wider range with fine increments - perfect for late model FI Suzuki motorcycles. Most reliable of all FI fueling tuning tools.  It's a tool to remap the stock box - not a "stay on" electronic box.

The Teka SFI allows the user to dial in Suzuki fuel injection systems. Adjusts low speed / idle (unlike other units and also adjusts different ranges of throttle opening, up to and including full throttle - and does it ON THE FLY - at home, the shop or the strip.
IDLE CIRCUIT: Make changes as bike is running, real time, unlike other FI adjuster boxes - absolutely saving time when adjusting the low speed mixture. Select a cylinder and make it richer or leaner - as the bike is idling. Just like adjusting fuel screws - except you don't get your hands dirty!  Makes idle adjustment a 3 minute joy instead of a 15 minute, vague, aggravation!
RUN CIRCUIT RANGE: Make changes as bike is running - on road or dyno. Teka SFI extends the range, as compared to Yosh/Denso box.
Teka provides smaller throttle position increments, too.
0% to 10%
Addresses Hayabusa off-idle glitches, where you need to richen up the "very small throttle opening" or just above that to address "hiccups".

Check the fueling on your local
Low Inertia 4-Gas EC997 eddy-current dyno, adjust the stock ECU for maximum power, set it and take your Teka Fuel Injection Programmer away with you.  That's good for 1-2 True HP over pc on a Hayabusa installation when tested under load on real dyno.
Works on all street FI Suzuki's till at least 2008.

Teka MMT Module
EZ tune MMT (adj. memory module) Power Tube


1 MMT module + shipping
Additional notes for seller



MMT Power Switch

After tuning with a Teka SFI 2,
you can use this optional module to fine fine adjust fueling with a screwdriver adjustable rotary switch.

MMT plugs right in to the bikes tuning port (same as the SFI).

If tuning with the SFI 2 / MMT combination:
The MMT is plugged into the bike, the SFI 2 is plugged into the MMT and all tuning settings from the SFI 2 are stored in the MMT and automatically transferred to the bike.
After SFI tuning, the SFI is removed and the MMT is left on the bike.
Then, for any fine tuning or adjusting after you maybe change air filters or similar or high altitude or a lot of freeway riding, you can just tweak the MMT Power Select Switch to a different number.
"5" = "as tuned with the SFI 2
"6" to "9" = incrementally richer
"4" to "1" = incrementally richer
"0" = "All zero ECU settings

If tuning with the MMT only (without custom SFI tuning):
If just installing an MMT without SFI custom  retuning, just installing the MMT will allow you to adjust, globally, incrementally richer or leaner with the Power Select rotary switch.

If you first install an MMT and decide the have it custom tuned with the SFI 2,  no problem.
Just plug the SFI 2 into the MMT's Tuning port and tune that perfect map.

Then, you still have the ability to "trim" map for conditions with the Power Select Switch - and you even have, by setting it at "0", to recheck how the "zero" map was in comparison to your "SFI Tuned Map". 

EZ install - all stock connectors, no splicing.

Ignition Advance Kit


add more low and mid power

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The Factory Pro Ignition Advance Kit inexpensively advances the timing a blanket 4 degrees. Adds more lowend and mid.

Use with or without a TRE.

The ABSOLUTELY BEST ignition timing solution is to have Factory Pro resculpt your ignition tables and reflash your ecu - Not to be confused with simple "delimiting" 415 883-5620

(Power Commander Ignition Module notes: "says 10", but, "10 dynojet degrees" is only about 2-3 real degrees, as of Jan 08)

Improves power and "snap", lowend and midrange and even a True horsepower or so at full throttle in a stock engine (meaning an engine with stock compression)

With stock engines with stock compression ratios, there is more power everywhere. Part throttle power is better - helping corner exit speeds. Improved in-town drivability.

It's 100% reliable, unlike electronic ignition boxes....

This kit also fits the SV650 - and requires a 1/2" impact wrench to remove the flywheel with the supplied rotor puller.

Ignition Advance KEY, Installation SV650, SV1000 DL650 DL1000 Hayabusa installation and pictures



Ignition Advance Install Hints
SV650  /  DL650
SV1000 / DL1000 / TL1000

and generally, 99-13 gsx1300r Hayabusa

This just an abbreviated guide with hints and some experience added. It is suggested that you have a genuine Suzuki service manual to refer to at all times.

If you have a question about ANYTHING or are unclear about what to do, call us, call your dealer, call somebody, call anybody, but don't think that you can't break anything, put something together wrong, hurt yourself, or worse, hurt somebody else. BE CAREFUL.   Marc

1/2" air or electric impact wrench
1/2" 17mm and 19mm sockets (use impact sockets for safety)
17mm box wrench
plastic mallet (or reasonable facsimile)
To start


and either:
1. drain the oil
2. lean bike over to the right, so that 1 cup of oil doesn't leak out when you pull the cover.

Here' is the left side of a well used trackday bike that we were doing some work on.

It makes pretty good power, with Twin Works (Zoran's) bored throttle bodies, mixed and matched intake cams and an exhaust system.

We tuned custom length  Factory Pro V stacks for it, tested The RTR-SUZ-36-04 +4 ignition advance key and tuned the PC3 for both R-Tech Pro V and pump premium.

The stacks were good for 1-2 improvement on top with the High Rpm setup and 4ish improvement in the midrange with the midrange set.
The Pro V was good for 1.7 TRUE HP (not dynojet hp) at high rpm, and about the same or slightly better at low rpm.

HP changes when testing different fuels are variable. The better a particular fuel's "burn rate" and other characteristics match each modified engine's compression and ignition timing, the better the HP improvement.
That's probably why, on the same model bike, one dyno operator can test "some modified engine bike" and get "XX" hp improvement, another dyno operator can test a different modified engine on the same model bike and lose HP and yet another dyno operator, can see essentially, no hp change with the very same fuel on a different modified engine.
There's also the set of engine internal temperatures resulting from common, but unrealistic bad dyno testing errors. Common dealership level dynos, that test in "4th gear sweeps" are misleading - internal engine (piston, plug and combustion chamber) can be off by as much as 7% to 10%.
That results in large fuel "burn rate" errors and are a large part of "what works best on an unsophisticated dealership level dyno" is not what works best in the real world" operation.
In the case of fuels, it's not uncommon that a lot of dealership level dyno testing will result in choosing a fuel that isn't actually the fuel that works the best on the real world.

So, on to the ignition advance install.........

Remove the case screws.

Tap with a plastic mallet to break the cover gasket free.

fwiw, 90% of the time, the gasket won't break, but do you feel lucky? (have a spare gasket handy......)

After it's free, wiggle and pull the cover off and swing it off to the back.
Use a bungee cord to hold it back out of your way.
No need to remove the clutch cable.
Here's the infamous idler gear shaft.
It usually sticks in the cover, and it would be best to pull it out of the cover now and stick it back through the idler gear in the engine case.
Here it is, installed, at 9 o'clock, just to the left of the flywheel.

To get the gear hole to line up with the crankcase hole,  use a 17mm wrench to wiggle the crankshaft while "eye balling" the hole alignment, the gently inserting the idler shaft and wiggling the crank till it  finally slips into place.

While keeping the idler shaft in place, rotate the crank so that the "F" mark on the flywheel is at about 12 o'clock. That will put the woodruff key slot essentially "up".

While keeping the idler shaft in place, rotate the crank so that the "F" mark on the flywheel is at about 12 o'clock. That will put the woodruff key slot essentially "up". On an SV type engine, if you lined up the "F" mark at the stock timing inspection window in the cover before removing the cover, it will be at about 10:30. (still ok).


(Thanks Don for the SV/DL pics)

Now, with a 1/2" impact wrench, unscrew the 17mm flywheel bolt. It's regular counterclockwise rotation to remove.
Now, lightly grease the initial threads on the flywheel puller and put a dab of grease on the face (like the mechanic is about to do).

The grease is to lubricate the threads and crank face and help prevent galling when you are impacting the puller bolt

19mm socket and 1/2" impact.
It's normal rotation, clockwise.

Read below frame.

  Puller Background "Intro Course"
The "taper fit" of the crank / internal rotor are  sensitive to ANY dimensional tolerance in the manufacturing process.

About 99% of the rotors will pop right off with a few short 3-4 hit Impact Wrench bursts.
1% will be tougher.

Some will sit there and not pop off after after 10-12  short "3-4  pulse hits".

If the flywheel doesn't just pop off after a few "3-4 pulse hits" (and 99% will), then, go to what I call "Mode 2".

You've given 10 or so "3-4 hits" and it didn't pop off, so now, just walk away, come back at least 10-15 minutes later and give the puller another "3-4 hit pulse". If it doesn't pop off, walk away. Repeat till flywheel pops off, even to the extent of leaving the puller torqued in, overnight.

If, after overnight, and a few "hit and waits" in the AM, it still doesn't pop off (and you are using a proven strength 1/2" Impact Wrench), then I would suspect that you have one of the "tight" 1%'ers.and suggest 1 of 3 options.
1. Stop and give up. (You don't HAVE to have an ignition advance, do you?)
2. Unscrew the puller, re-grease and try a few more "hit and waits" in 10 hit increments, getting closer to stripping the puller and maybe the the flywheel threads (stripped threads are only actually expensive if you insist on pulling the flywheel, ever).
3. Call your friendly local dealer to do it, be honest and tell them what you are doing and tell them that the flywheel isn't popping off. If you've done the above, it's likely that your dealer might not be able to do it either.

and a 4th option that's not 1 of the 3 good options:
4. Put it all back to together and don't tell the dealer that the flywheel wasn't popping off.
That's got you a good chance of them, working in good faith, stripping the flywheel, because they don't know that the flywheel is a "tight one".

I've run into only 1-2 flywheels in SV/DL's that just refused to pop off (out of literally 100's), even after 10 hit increments, an "overnight" and a few more hits during the next day. I eventually deferred to option 1 (you don't REALLY have to have an ignition advance, do you?). But I do remember a flywheel that popped off after a couple DAYS of patient "hit and waits!)

Now that I've scared you........  the SV type engines are usually relatively easy.  Marc

If you are lucky, the key will be at about 12 o'clock.

If not, put the flywheel back on, the bolt back in lightly impact it in and use a 17mm wrench to turn the crank to put the keyway slot at 12 o'clock. Then remove the flywheel again.


The stock woodruff key may be stuck in the crank slot. A few light taps will help.

Be careful to prevent the key from bouncing down, behind the starter clutch gear and into the nether regions of your dark, unreachable voids of your crankcases.


  Woodruff Key Primer
A Woodruff key or half-moon key, is a semicircular shaped, removable key that fits into a matching keyway cut into a shaft, leaving a protruding tab. The tab mates with a matching slot on a device mounted flush upon the shaft e.g. a pulley, thus preventing the device from freely rotating about the shaft. It is widely used in machine tools and in the automotive industry.

This type of key was developed by W.N. Woodruff of Connecticut, who was presented in 1888 with the John Scott Medal by the Franklin Institute for the invention.[1]

from Wikipedia

When a woodruff key is used on a tapered shaft fit (like the tapered shaft on the crank and the flywheel), the key is actually only used for lining up the shaft and flywheel before it's tightened and "pressed onto" and locked in place by the "wedging action" of the two "fits".

On the SV, TL, DL and Hayabusa engines, the Factory Pro key is a special custom made "offset" type.

When key is installed with offset to the LEFT (the same way the engine rotates), you are advancing the ignition timing. (normally, that's how you'd install).

One end of the key slips into the crank's slot and the outer part shifts the flywheel over to rotate the flywheel (and the bumps on the perimeter that trigger the ignition pulses) to the left, in direction of engine rotation, to advance the ignition timing.

You "could" install the key with the offset to the right to retard the timing, should you need to do that for nitrous or turbo apps.


Make sure idler gear shaft is properly in place.

Line up flywheel with key and jiggle till the flywheel engages properly with the starter clutch behind.

Replace 17mm flywheel bolt, 87 ft/lbs is the book specified torque (some mechanics with good feel use an impact wrench).

Replace the cover. Reinstall the cover bolts. 5-7ft/lbs is the torque.

If you drained or lost any oil, CHECK AND REFILL THE OIL before starting!!!!

Comments, corrections, additions to this page:  email
Thanks - Marc
2009 Feb 23





Absolutely NO carb parts sold in California.

New and improved Suzuki Teka SFI  2

with new TPS display and "MMT" Memory Module Tuner

Finally - Quick, easy, cost effective Suzuki tuning with no expensive "add-on boxes"
Suzuki cruisers and sportbikes

Please click here for more info

Contact Factory Pro
M-F, 9am - 5pm, Pacific time, -7 or -8 GMT

800 869-0497
 USA and Canada

415 883-5620

parts information

EC997 dynamometer information

Product Support /Tech SECTION
click here


Mailing / Shipping address:

Factory Pro
101c Roblar Drive
Novato, CA

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The extension of the laboratory for engines of the Swiss Federal Institute of Technology was completed in about 1935. Its architect was Rudolf Otto Salvisberg (1882-1940). He had a successful career in Berlin but returned to Switzerland after the advent of the Nazis. His architectural style was somewhat similar to that of Erich Mendelsohn. The staircase of the laboratory is in normal use but well preserved.
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