Ignition Advance Install Hints
SV650 / DL650
SV1000 / DL1000 / TL1000
and generally, 99-13 gsx1300r Hayabusa
If you have a question about ANYTHING or are unclear about what to do, call us, call your dealer, call somebody, call anybody, but don't think that you can't break anything, put something together wrong, hurt yourself, or worse, hurt somebody else. BE CAREFUL. Marc
1/2" air or electric impact wrench
1/2" 17mm and 19mm sockets (use impact sockets for safety)
17mm box wrench
plastic mallet (or reasonable facsimile)
REMOVE THE IGNITION KEY
|Here' is the left side of a well used trackday
bike that we were doing some work on.
It makes pretty good power, with Twin Works (Zoran's) bored throttle bodies, mixed and matched intake cams and an exhaust system.
We tuned custom length Factory Pro V stacks for it, tested The RTR-SUZ-36-04 +4 ignition advance key and tuned the PC3 for both R-Tech Pro V and pump premium.
The stacks were good for 1-2 improvement on top with the High
Rpm setup and 4ish improvement in the midrange with the midrange set.
So, on to the ignition advance install.........
|Remove the case screws.
Tap with a plastic mallet to break the cover gasket free.
fwiw, 90% of the time, the gasket won't break, but do you feel lucky? (have a spare gasket handy......)
|After it's free, wiggle and pull the cover off
and swing it off to the back.
Use a bungee cord to hold it back out of your way.
No need to remove the clutch cable.
|Here's the infamous idler gear shaft.
It usually sticks in the cover, and it would be best to pull it out of the cover now and stick it back through the idler gear in the engine case.
|Here it is, installed, at 9 o'clock, just to the
left of the flywheel.
To get the gear hole to line up with the crankcase hole, use a 17mm wrench to wiggle the crankshaft while "eye balling" the hole alignment, the gently inserting the idler shaft and wiggling the crank till it finally slips into place.
While keeping the idler shaft in place, rotate the crank so that the "F" mark on the flywheel is at about 12 o'clock. That will put the woodruff key slot essentially "up".
While keeping the idler shaft in place, rotate the crank so that the "F" mark on the flywheel is at about 12 o'clock. That will put the woodruff key slot essentially "up". On an SV type engine, if you lined up the "F" mark at the stock timing inspection window in the cover before removing the cover, it will be at about 10:30. (still ok).
(Thanks Don for the SV/DL pics)
|Now, with a 1/2" impact wrench, unscrew the 17mm flywheel bolt. It's regular counterclockwise rotation to remove.|
|Now, lightly grease the initial threads on the
flywheel puller and put a dab of grease on the face (like the
mechanic is about to do).
The grease is to lubricate the threads and crank face and help prevent galling when you are impacting the puller bolt
|19mm socket and 1/2" impact.
It's normal rotation, clockwise.
Read below frame.
|Puller Background "Intro Course"
The "taper fit" of the crank / internal rotor are sensitive to ANY dimensional tolerance in the manufacturing process.
About 99% of the rotors will pop right off with a few short 3-4
hit Impact Wrench bursts.
If the flywheel doesn't just pop off after a few "3-4 pulse hits" (and 99% will), then, go to what I call "Mode 2".
You've given 10 or so "3-4 hits" and it didn't pop
off, so now, just walk away, come back at least 10-15 minutes later
and give the puller another "3-4 hit pulse". If it doesn't pop off,
walk away. Repeat till flywheel pops off, even to the extent of
leaving the puller torqued in, overnight.
Now that I've scared you........ the SV type engines are usually relatively easy. Marc
|If you are lucky, the key will be at about 12
If not, put the flywheel back on,
the bolt back in lightly impact it in and use a 17mm wrench to turn
the crank to put the keyway slot at 12 o'clock. Then remove the
|The stock woodruff key may be stuck in the crank
slot. A few light taps will help.
Be careful to prevent the key from bouncing down, behind the starter clutch gear and into the nether regions of your dark, unreachable voids of your crankcases.
|Woodruff Key Primer
A Woodruff key or half-moon key, is a semicircular shaped, removable key that fits into a matching keyway cut into a shaft, leaving a protruding tab. The tab mates with a matching slot on a device mounted flush upon the shaft e.g. a pulley, thus preventing the device from freely rotating about the shaft. It is widely used in machine tools and in the automotive industry.
This type of key was developed by W.N. Woodruff of Connecticut, who was presented in 1888 with the John Scott Medal by the Franklin Institute for the invention.
When a woodruff key is used on a tapered shaft fit (like the tapered shaft on the crank and the flywheel), the key is actually only used for lining up the shaft and flywheel before it's tightened and "pressed onto" and locked in place by the "wedging action" of the two "fits".
|On the SV, TL, DL and Hayabusa engines, the Factory
Pro key is a special custom made "offset" type.
When key is installed with offset to the LEFT (the same way the engine rotates), you are advancing the ignition timing. (normally, that's how you'd install).
One end of the key slips into the crank's slot and the outer part shifts the flywheel over to rotate the flywheel (and the bumps on the perimeter that trigger the ignition pulses) to the left, in direction of engine rotation, to advance the ignition timing.
You "could" install the key with the offset to the right to retard the timing, should you need to do that for nitrous or turbo apps.
Make sure idler gear shaft is properly in place.
Line up flywheel with key and jiggle till the flywheel engages properly with the starter clutch behind.
Replace 17mm flywheel bolt, 87 ft/lbs is the book specified torque (some mechanics with good feel use an impact wrench).
Replace the cover. Reinstall the cover bolts. 5-7ft/lbs is the torque.
If you drained or lost any oil, CHECK AND REFILL THE OIL before starting!!!!
Comments, corrections, additions to this page:
Thanks - Marc
2009 Feb 23