Stefan Phillips, Los Angeles,
CA, 73k miles, pic taken 2007 April 09
zx-11 / zzr1100
simple and reliable, the ZX-11 / ZZR1100 is one of the nicest
and funnest bikes to ride - kind of like a full-race Lincoln
It's relatively mild state of tune
just begs for a bit of "tweaking".
ZX-11 (US), 90-05
ZZr1100, 90-01 -
The Carb Recal Kit and the Ignition
Advance Rotor perk up the low-end and midrange power and response for quicker
warm-up and more response. The Factory Carb Recal Kit will, when properly
tuned, absolutely eliminate the 4k-4.5k flat spot at cruise.
Full throttle acceleration is very significantly improved - making the Factory
Pro kit the best choice for drag racing AND non track applications. Sounds
crazy - but, if the carb is tuned to deliver fuel at proper rates at full
throttle, part throttle cruise and all rpms and throttle positions in between,
the engine will simply produce more power under touring use, drag use and
in town use. It takes the Factory Pro Low
Inertia EC997 Eddy Current Dynamometer (really - it does) to accomplish
Expect fuel consumption to increase
a bit, but certainly not 10%. I'd expect 3%-5% - unless after the
kit install, you start enjoying full throttle acceleration more!
The Transmission Detent Spring Kit really puts "snick" into the shifting
and helps prevent missed shifts - Actually shifts better than a new
bike. Downshifts are cleaner and more reliable.
The Shift Kit install is somewhat
like a Chinese wooden cube assembly technique, but, YES,
you can remove the shift mechanism cover and shift arm plate without
removing the engine from the frame.
Pro Series product number
93-05 (lg air
inlet - w/ stock~#155-#160mj)
K33 Factory Series product
90.5-92 (small air inlet
w/ stock #140mj)
K19 Factory Series product
(lg air inlet - w/ stock~#155-#160mj)
Factory Series product
Note: All of the bikes from 1990-2001 use
the same carb recal needle in the kits. Only the main jets
supplied in the kits are different. You can interchange kits
for all years with simple swapping of main jets.
Standard drop - in carb kit
Config 10 Carb Recalibration Kit
Standard "drop-in" style
The C-10 kit, when
properly tuned, adds more / midrange and if the proper main
jet is selected, more top-end power. Easy to install and tune
- no slide drilling!
popular kit on the Internet.
filter system (avail. direct from Factory) for more power -
for more information.
(sample pic - not kaw-11)
fits 90-01 zx11
Ignition Advance Rotor
Adds significant power at ALL part throttle
positions. That equates to more "snap" in throttle response for you!
Bolts on easily with hand tools. No adjustments necessary.
EZ Adjust Fuel Screw Set
Extended Fuel Screw Set
4 screws, 4 springs, 4 washers, 4 o-rings
zx11 zzr1100 93-05
contains 4 extended screws, springs, washers and
Boy" Fuel Screw
Finger and screwdriver adjustable
Extended Fuel Mixture Screw set
Easily adjust to fix lean decel
backfiring or rich burble - or lean out the cruise for
better highway mileage.
Frustrated with trying to
find an "almost 90 degree" screwdriver to fine adjust your
fuel screws for best idle and cruise?
Use Factory Pro's new "finger and screwdriver adjustable" fuel screws to adjust for best throttle response. Traveling to high altitude? It's
easy to lean out the lowend temporarily.
Make your life easier.
Remove old short stock fuel screw, old o-ring, old washer and old
spring. The o-ring might be stuck in the carb, so, take a light and
make sure it's really out - if it didn't come out with the
screw (or you can't find it after you took out the screw)
Use a small bent wire to pull it out if it doesn't drop out. Keep
the old parts for "spares".
Pro finger adjustable fuel screw kit comes with:
4 Long Boy fuel screws
4 new o-rings
4 new washers
4 new springs
Make your ZX/ZZr shift quicker
- virtually eliminate missed shifts.
Make shifting MUCH quicker and virtually eliminate missed
shifts. Like a Chinese wooden cube puzzle to install - Not for
the impatient installer but, as we know, patience is a virtue.
Make the transmission "snick" into gears. Works well on track
and street. Slightly firmer lever action.
Big improvement in shift precision.
Installation: Have to remove chain and small shift mechanism
cover. Takes 1-2 hours.
INSTALL NOTES: for those who hate
puzzles and Kaw Concours'
I got the shift kit installed, and it works
like a charm.
TL-float height gauge
The only way to accurately measure float
heights. Works on nearly every carburetor.
Engine numbers 1990-1995
|US Ninja ZX-11
Made in Japan
|1990 ZX1100C1 Made in US
Made in Japan
|1991 ZX1100C2 Made in US
Made in Japan
|1992 ZX1100C3 Made in US
|1993 ZX1100C4 Made in US
Made in Japan
|1993 ZX1100D1 Made in US
Made in Japan
|1994 ZX1100D2 Made in US
Hi Mark this is Joe Williams. You may not remember me but my 93 ZX11 was
the test bike for your jet kit. It was 5 mph faster that all of the other
ZX11s at Sears Point on a 95 degree day,
10.70 at 131 mph on my third pass. that was in 1993. The bike still runs
great with your jet kit + k&n + SPLIT FIRE plugs + MUZZYS EXHAUST + Sealing
up the air box + A lighter SPROCKET SPECIALIST SPROCKET + RACE FUEL . Let
me know if you have a front brake rotor kit for the 93 ZX11 C4 model.
XXX-XXX-7711 or e mail me at the same e mail address that you see now. It's
my wife's computer.
Received 12/14/99 from
Blagrove, Swindon, England,
Martin M. wrote:
First of all let me say thanks for the help and quality of product that
you supplied me with when jetting my zzr1100 c1. the people at the dyno
didn't seem to think much of your product but changed there mind when my
bike pumped out 139 bhp (stock bike with a micron race exhaust ,your jet
kit and ignition advancer).
Anyway I have a friend with another zzr1100 c1 and he has done loads of
stuff to his bike (1206 barrels and more) but he wanted to fit Keihin 42
CVK on his bike could you advise me whether the carbs would fit off a Honda
blackbird or are they completely different ??
or is it easier to get come from a supplier ? and can you get new rubbers
for the air box ??
any information would be greatly received
many thanks for you continued help and support
So, what is the ram air intake system
good for in hp on the road at high speed? Testing that we did indicated
~8-9hp at 120-130mph or 190-219kph.
A turbocharged 1100 with only 7.5psi boost WILL loft the front wheel into
the air in third gear on a wet road. Just after that, it will also break
traction, get sideways and pitch ex-employees through air, onto the highway
and into the unemployment line.
Subject: 2000 ZX11
Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 15:03:20 -0500
From: "Pat Russo" <email@example.com>
To: "Marc Salvisberg" <firstname.lastname@example.org>
I just finished installing your jet kit and +4 degree advancer in my boat
I wanted to let you know it definitely filled in the low spots in the power
band and increased drivability.
I am however having trouble understanding the theory
behind the recommended twin carb pressure correction lines vs. the stock
two into one line.
As I see it, this system is basically a dead ended system with a very small
flow characteristic. If that's true, then pressure differences should be
felt at the carbs almost equally and instantaneously in which case twin
lines wouldn't be needed. Am I off base here?
Thanks, Pat Russo
White Bear Lake, Minnesota.
Hi Pat -
As you have reasoned, (I hope you lost no sleep over it - I apologize if
you did) there is virtually no difference.
You are right, correct and your reasoning is without reproach. (:-)
The diagram was carried over from most of the other Kawasaki models. You
are the first person to mention it!
Glad all else worked well!
From: Lewis Lefcourt <email@example.com>
4/14/2001 3:37 PM
Subject: jetting at 5,000 ft
Just responding after I finally got my 93 ZX11C running great.
Followed your instructions and it was to rich. But adjusting the fuel screws
to 2 turns instead of three made all the difference. With a D&D pipe and
K&N filter the bike pulls very hard in all gears at any RPM above 2,000.
Thanks for a great product.
Detent Arm Kit ZX-11 (all years) and Concours
|Concourse, all years
||This kit DOES fit the Concours....
BUT!!!! You MUST remove entire driveshaft to install. Big job.
||Pull parts around shift
||Remove as many of
the loosened screws
as you can from the small cover.
||Pull cover outwards,
||Reach behind cover
(blind) and "delatch" the shift shaft from the end of the shift
||Then pull the shaft
towards you, into the small cover.
||Rotate and angle cover
(with shift shaft pulled into the small
cover) and when you angle it "just right" the cover and
shift shaft slips right out.
||It's a 100% "doable"
thing - But - it will only happen if you do all the above.
I've had perfectly capable mechanics swear that is was impossible
- Usually after they loosened up the engine and installed
the kit , w/o calling - but, I don't know of anybody
who called and then couldn't do it.......but there's probably
YES - it can happen like we said - just check off each step
and do it -
Yes - the Kawasaki ZX11 manual is incorrect.
||To reinstall, put
whatever screws wouldn't come out of the cover when it was
installed, put shift shaft back into the cover (if you even
took it out) - Pull shift shaft back into cover, angle and
rotate the assembly and drop it back in.
||Once back in place.....
pull cover out, towards you, and now push the shift shaft
outwards, towards the motor.
Reach around (blind) and wiggle / jog / twiddle with the
spring loaded "fingers". You will eventually feel it click
into place (then you will be able to push the shift shaft
in, fully, towards the engine) and then slide the
cover back into its final position.
||If the cover goes
on all the way - the shift mechanism is installed properly
- otherwise, you wouldn't have been able to push the shift
shaft all the way in or install the cover flush to the engine.
||Most all Kawasaki's
will not shift into second gear without actually running
through first - so, you can't upshift and downshift, other
than 1st and neutral.