Courtesy Honda

Honda crf450r
02-08


Factory Pro's Shift STAR kit -
help prevent missed shifts and dog and fork damage caused by missed shifts.
 
(sample pic, not actual H45)

SHFT-EVO-H45-STAR  $149.95
02-08
(inc 1 EVO STAR,- gaskets not supplied)
 
replaces Stock star
24312-KA3-741
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2.

crf450r EVO Shift STAR only


The Factory Pro EVO Shift STAR Upgrade will upgrade your bike to "better than new" quicker, more consistent shift action.

Suggest Star, Arm and Spring for best shifting.


Proven in 15+ years of pro level use.

Virtually eliminate missed shifts.

Help eliminate 5th and 6th ghost neutrals.

Decreases shift process 5mm to 10ms each shift.

Make shifting MUCH quicker and virtually eliminate missed shifts.

Helps address missed shifts caused by poor shift detent "star" profile.

Helps prevent shift fork and gear engagement dog damage caused by missed shifts.

The Factory Pro Shift STAR is an awesome upgrade for the notchy Honda shifting.

Installation: Slightly more complicated than replacing the clutch basket. It's right behind the clutch basket.

No case splitting required.

Feedback

Shift Star kit worked awesome!  Not one missed shift all weekend.  Easier to find neutral, too - Which is good because I have to put it in neutral to start it for some reason. Doesn't like to start with the clutch in. With the close ratio tranny, I did a lot of shifting.

Leigh Thomas - Mojave

 
(sample pic, not actual H45)

SHFT-ARM-HKA3-STEEL  $69.95
02-08

(inc 1Microbearing Detent Arm and gaskets not supplied)
 replaces arm 24430-KA3-740
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2.

F-Pro Miicrobearing Detent ARM


For best results use with at least, the F-Pro shift spring.

Proven in 15+ years of pro level use.

Help eliminate missed shifts.

Help eliminate 5th and 6th ghost neutrals.

Decreases shift process ~5ms each shift.

Make shifting quicker and virtually eliminate missed shifts.

Helps address missed shifts caused by high friction detent roller.

Helps prevent shift fork and gear engagement dog damage caused by missed shifts.

Installation: Slightly more complicated than replacing the clutch basket. It's right behind the clutch basket.

No case splitting required.

Feedback

Shift Star kit worked awesome!  Not one missed shift all weekend.  Easier to find neutral, too - Which is good because I have to put it in neutral to start it for some reason. Doesn't like to start with the clutch in. With the close ratio tranny, I did a lot of shifting.

Leigh Thomas - Mojave




F-Pro
pn: z95-H45-xxx

 02-08
 crf450r Comp Shift Spring

(replaces original Honda 24435-MEN-A10 and 770 and MEB-670)

$49.95
1. Choose your shipping method
2.
F-Pro crf450r and x  Comp Shift Spring
(also fits 04-05 trx450

Slightly stronger detent arm spring for  more secure and even quicker shifts

Addresses that popping out of gear in the air issue -
It's caused by the shift mechanism only rotating the shift drum halfway.

This spring is the icing on the cake for the guys who have the Shift Star kit.

For best results use with at least, the F-Pro Microbearing detent arm
.
Keihin FCR Carb Recalibration Kit

 


(sample pic)

CRB-CH45r07  04-08 

 $149.95

 

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2.

 

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Posted Image


Factory Pro
FCR Emulsion  Tube

pn: CRZ-EMU-125k / 036

fits 250 and 450 w FCR carbs

$79.95

in STOCK

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2.
 

   
   

 

 The 07-08 crf450r carb recal kit was designed with as much care and attention to detail as we give to our EC997 dynamometer and test routines, our Shift STAR shift improvement kits, our Billet Engine Covers and all of the other products that the quickest road racers in the USA and World used to collect a total of 9 WERA and F-USA national Championships - along with the Suzuki Cup World Champion, Rob Jensen.
    We've now entered the off-road arena to bring some new, exciting, well proven concepts, such as our easily tuneable "HDJ" style jet kits and several other things that we've picked up along the way.

    One of the improvements was EC997 dyne systems design and test routine design - We have been saying for years that inertia dynos were misleading and now, these new "HDJ" carb kits show how much better the EC997 load dynos are than inertia dynos when it comes to developing any performance products. Sounds a bit egotistical? Perhaps it sounds that way - but, I think that we've got quite a few local Norcal racers that we've done fine tuning work for that would agree with us.

We are just passionate about fine tuning.

   The Factory Pro HDJ kits, designed by Marc Salvisberg, will run more evenly over a wider temperature and altitude range than any other carb kit and will produce 3% to 8% better power than another carb with the "best main jet" in it, when properly tuned and tested under a real load. This does not mean an inertia dyno - though, power will be better with a dealership level dyno, also.So - Here's the power - Buy it!
800 869-0497
Thanks!


Feedback

wondermuscle

Posted 04 May 2009 - 07:08 AM

For those of you that are on the never ending quest for carburetion ambrosia, I have something that may help you succeed.  The factory pro HDJ emulsion tube. What is the emulsion tube?  It is the tube that the main jet is generally threaded into.  It emulsifies (mixes, atomizes etc.) the fuel as it gets pulled into the airstream of the carb.  http://www.factorypr...mu_hi_disp.html

I have been playing around with different carb settings since I bought my 08 YZ 450 in Dec of 2008.  I have played with main jets, pilot jets, needles and their positions.  I got the bike to work great but it seemed that the needle position never gave me the crisp lower midrange that I was searching for.

Below are my current settings

45 Pilot Jet
2.5 turns out on the fuel screw
165 Main Jet
Stock needle
3rd clip
Factory Pro 125k  /  036 emulsion tube

I ride California desert at sea level and mountains of northern Baja with the same jetting.

I did some web search and found that there is a company who makes their own emulsion tubes which help increase the efficiency of the main circuit in the FCRs.  Zip-Ty Racing also endorses their product and uses them in some/most of their race bikes.

I ordered one from them over the phone because their website is a bit confusing, but none the less they have some great info on there.

The installation was as easy as swapping out a main jet.
Remove the 17mm float bowl plug, then use an 8mm to remove the emulsion tube.  Swap the main jet to the new emulsion tube and put it back in.  It takes about 5 minutes.  I put a drop of gas on the o-ring of the new emulsion tube just to help it slide in.

The results were not mind boggling but it did exactly what I was looking for.  It cleaned up the off idle to mid throttle response.  I also noticed that the off idle bog is better but not fixed.  

I highly recommend this emulsion tube to help clean up the lower to midrange throttle response.

Comment: Works even better with the entire carb kit.  Issues with low speed carburetion with the oringed HDJ tubes are are addressed with the often overlooked float height adjustments. Marc

Other performance goodies


F-Pro Billet Clutch Cover w/ new screws

pn: cov-ch45-rh-kt

02-08 crf450r
(not the "x")


$179.95 retail

Special  $69.95
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2.

 

Factory Pro Around the World

CR450f
KONSTANTIN MEZHUEV
Winter in Moscow, 2009

 

Tech Tips



 Factory Pro's
patented HDJ  MAJ installation for crf / wr / yfz
 Keihin FCR carbs

Where's my main air jet and what do I do with that drill bit and tap that came in my Factory Pro HDJ kit for my Keihin FCR carb?

First step is to eliminate the fixed main air jet restriction.
It's about 40mm down the MAJ hole (left picture).

Set your 3mm drill so that it has 45mm to 46mm of drill bit exposed from your drill chuck.
(see right picture)

Remove the stock emulsion tube (that's what the main jet screws into) so that you can clean out the carb well. By only having 45mm to 46mm of the drill bit exposed, it prevents you from drilling too far.

Then, use the supplied tap from our HDJ carb kit, thread the Main Air Jet (aka "MAJ") hole.
You only need to go far enough to be able to thread in the new replaceable jet that we supply.

Clean the hole, of course.

After it's clean, complete the MAJ Modification by installing the supplied Main Air Jet and installing the new Factory Pro HDJ Emulsion Tube.

NOTE!!!
If you aren't confident in your ability or in your understanding of what you are trying to accomplish - no worry - Call us up or talk to someone locally who has more experience in these matters.
If you are still not sure, see if there's a
Factory Pro Tuning Center locally or visit your favorite local dealership or shop and get some help there -

We all have to learn, and "usually", having an experienced person around makes everything "easy".

This modification is something similar to what we've done in many different carb types over the years, though it might be new to some who haven't used our "1.7-RK" carb kits before.
 

 

Available direct from:

 

To adjust float height:       Sooo....

You read the carb kit instructions and they specify a 15mm float height. Float height? What's a float height?  15mm? How much is that in inches? (it's .590")

Does that mean I must do it???
YES!

Gee whiz!   What do I measure with??

You can use a set of vernier calipers, if you have them - they are great for measuring all sorts of things, but you can make it even easier with our...

Float Level Setting Gauge

Measures from 0mm to more than you will ever need!    Easier to use than vernier calipers on carbs. The vertical legs adjust in width and the thin post slides up and down so you can slide the post to the required clearly marked float height measurement.

 

Remove float bowl screws. Factory Pro gives you replacement allen screws in most carb kits to replace usual phillips screws.

Slide the lower movable leg so that both legs will rest on what would be called the gasket surface of the carb body (if there was a gasket, anyway)

 

Tilt the carbs so that the floats just flop over towards and into the carb body.

Tilt just enough to touch and close the float the float valve, but...

Do NOT compress the float valve spring when measuring (only exception is 95-97 zx6r)

Test adjust the "L" horizontal arm in the usual 1mm increments and test fit the guage to see what the float is set at now. (or not).

(If we say 15mm and you measure 4mm less than that - you might be compressing the little float valve spring.)

At this time, you can set the Float Height Guage to what you want to reset the floats to.
If you are tuning, you'd usually use 1mm increments

CV Carbs: Too RICH at full throttle / low rpm (that's the most common in CV carbs)
Slide carbs (FCR's) - Float height controls 25% throttle at ALL rpms.

If the float height is too low (small float height measurement), bend the tab slightly to increase the height measurement. It's a 5:1 movement ratio.

CV: If the float sticks out further, down, into the float bowl, the carb will deliver less fuel (leaner), especially at low rpms and at cruise.
Slide carbs: Float height controls 25% throttle at all rpm's, even at redline.

You'd generally change the float height in 1mm increments when tuning.

It will affect the topend slightly. Maybe 1.5mm leaner float height would require 1 size larger main jet to keep equal main jet fuel delivery.

CV Carbs: Too LEAN at full throttle / low rpm (not too common in CV carbs)
Slide carbs (FCR's) - Float height controls 25% throttle at ALL rpms.

If the float height is too LARGE, bend the tab slightly OUT to decrease the height measurement.

If the float sticks out further, UP, into the carb body, the carb will deliver MORE fuel (richer), especially at CV low rpms and at cruise.

It will affect the topend slightly. Maybe 1.5mm richer float height would require 1 size smaller main jet to keep equal main jet fuel delivery.

You'd generally change the float height in 1mm increments when tuning.

When you are done, a multi-cylinder must be all within .5mm (1/2mm) or .020" range of each other.

 

Nifty baffle plates in the 05 KLX300!
This carb type has been around since the early 80's! It's had some updates over the years. It's similar to the Ninja 900'a and ex250 styles.
A view from the engine side, butterfly open.

Why adjust the float height?

Changing the float height changes the level of the fuel in the float bowl. The fuel height adjusts the full throttle, 2k-3k rpm and part throttle cruise, as in cruising around town, trying to be quiet... To give a scale of change, if the bike runs well when cold, but gets a bit sloppy when fully warmed up, lower the fuel level 1mm (i.e. go from 15mm to 16mm float height - remember the float measurement is "backwards").

When do I adjust the float height?

When installing a Carb Recalibration Kit tm.
When rebuilding carbs.
To adjust low rpm / part throttle operation that isn't pilot jet, fuel screw or needle height related.
When a bike starts running rich at  low rpm after a mishap or
After an overwhelming gravity equalization process occurs.



How much is the nifty Float Valve Measuring Tool?
How much is that nifty Float Valve Measuring Tool?

About $49.95, direct from Factory Pro

415 883-5620
voice

415 492-8803 fax

 

 

Absolutely NO carb parts sold in California.

New and improved Suzuki Teka SFI  2

with new TPS display and "MMT" Memory Module Tuner

Finally - Quick, easy, cost effective Suzuki tuning with no expensive "add-on boxes"
Suzuki cruisers and sportbikes

Please click here for more info

Contact Factory Pro
M-F, 9am - 5pm, Pacific time, -7 or -8 GMT

800 869-0497
 USA and Canada

415 883-5620

parts information
 info@factorypro.com

EC997 dynamometer information
info@factorypro.com

Product Support /Tech SECTION
click here

 

Mailing / Shipping address:

Factory Pro
101c Roblar Drive
Novato, CA
USA

And most importantly
Restart back at the HOME page and click on the red box in the top left to find the bike that you want parts for...
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LINKS
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Flight Training - train with AMA race winner Todd Harrington.

The Harringtons own American Flyers, one of the most established flight training facilities in the USA.

 8 locations

 800-362-0808
The Rich Oliver Mystery School will help you discover your hidden inner strength. 
It will challenge you. It will teach you a new way of thinking, and a new way of riding. You can take your riding to an exciting new level!  

We use a variety of proven drills and training techniques. 
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Just tell them that you saw this on the Factory Pro website!
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The extension of the laboratory for engines of the Swiss Federal Institute of Technology was completed in about 1935. Its architect was Rudolf Otto Salvisberg (1882-1940). He had a successful career in Berlin but returned to Switzerland after the advent of the Nazis. His architectural style was somewhat similar to that of Erich Mendelsohn. The staircase of the laboratory is in normal use but well preserved.
Edited to the tunes of Chemical Residue by Herbie Hancock.