Kawasaki ZG-14, 08-16 Gen 2
Factory Pro Series K96

EVO Shift STAR for quicker shifting and virtually eliminate missed shifts


Unleash your bike's power and control

Factory Pro
Race bike ECU Reflash

  • For 06-14 custom
    (need bike for custom mapping)
  • adjust IAP Fuel Maps for better race part throttle
  • adjust TPS Fuel Maps for better race power
  • adjust Ignition Maps for more race torque
  • Secondary Throttle Plate (STP) Opening Maps
  • Fuel Trim Maps for racing
  • Adjust RPM Limiters
  • Disable Top Speed Limiter
  • Disable Stock O2 Sensor for racing

  • For 12-14 custom
    (need bike for custom mapping)

  • All above possible, plus:
  • Add Retain Traction Control setting from last ride if feature present

Phenomenal - Delimit your track or AFM bike.

Remove high rpm power restrictions
Change rev limiter.
Remove / modify speed limiter
Modify ignition timing and fuel tables

We have all learned that each bike, even with the same aftermarket parts, requires different mapping than it's identical twin bike. That's why when someone  "downloads the perfect map" off of some website for a pc or Bazzaz, that it only has a 10% chance of being perfect "on YOUR bike".
With 35+ years of tuning experience, Factory Pro knows that the key to silky smooth and strong  running is individualized, perfect tuning on each bike - That's why we do tuning for people all over.

 mail in ECU - non California bikes
race only reflash - including
remove speed limit
change rev limit if desired
STP acc set to custom
IGN tables modified
disable 02 sensor CE light
Tune FUEL maps to your bike w your power commander
race only reflash - including
remove speed limit
change rev limit if desired
STP set to 100% or custom if desired
disable 02 sensor CE light


(415) 472-4962 or mail in 800 869-0497

Factory Pro Billet Velocity Stacks (patented)

Adds more low and Midrange and some additional Top End


Billet Stacks
VEL-K96-2525-v50   $429.95

Extra low and Midrange and about 1-2 topend hp.

1. Choose your shipping method

Midrange V Stack Test results

This ZX-14:
All stock, 2400 miles, stock air filter, stock exhaust system

All stock bike, with stock exhaust

Factory Pro Superflare Billet V Stacks.
No FI retuning done

+4 hp at 4000
+3 at 5000
+3 at 6000
+5 at 7000
+5 at 8000
+3 at 9000
+2 at 10,000

ZG-14 Billet Low and midrange Velocity Stacks
Patented Quick change, clampless high velocity design.
Super seal design keeps all the pressurized air IN the airbox.

Note from Marc:
The "Midrange" Race stacks are my choice for any street and most track use.

The additional 4-5 HP across the 7000 to 9000 rpm range augments the 2 True HP gain at 10,000 rpm.  For street and track use, the midrange is "where it's at" and for track use, well, ask Ryan Schnitz or Brock Davidson if they bang it off the rev limit every shift (no....  they run where the power is  ;-)

This is
V Stack Test results
Our testing was done with:
stock camshafts, stock pistons and stock valves and cylinder head and a stock exhaust system.

The above chart is TRUE HP - Not dynojet horsepower (if you were wondering)
To estimate DJHP, multiply True HP by 1.15 to 1.20.
That will give you about what a dj dyno or dynojet clone might give you, IF the rear tire isn't slipping.... and a 14's rear tire usually slips and loses power on a dynojet dyno.
That's what the smoke off the rear tire is -


EVO Shift Star Kit - Transmission Shift Improvement

$239.95 USD

Star, F-Pro Shift spring, clutch cover gasket.

1. Choose your shipping method

Factory Pro's famous SHIFT STAR kit

Rider's Choice.

Make shifting easier and quicker and virtually eliminate missed shifts.
Includes Factory Pro's exclusive Shift STAR, HD detent spring and clutch cover gasket.

You must remove the clutch assembly to install. Needs 1/2" impact wrench and 30mm socket. 1-2 hour install.
No engine case splitting required.

Perfect to install when upgrading your clutch.

 When using the FPro Shift Star kit, Quickshifter kill time must be decreased 5ms to 10ms, or shifting will be clunky.

Thanks to Travis Fowler in Las Vegas for the use of his bike -  He's got the smoothest, quickest shifting 14 in the world!

Matched Injector Sets

Matched Injector Sets

$120 for 1 set of 4 at  2%

$180 for 1 set of 4 at 1%
Matched injector Sets

Serious engine tuners agree that power is maximized with proper tuning - and optimal tuning isn't possible with mismatched injectors.
A weak injector can take out a pro dragbike's cylinder in a single run.

Factory Pro inspects, pulse cleans, static AND pulse flows mass quantities of injectors and carefully selects like flowing (both static and pulse) units and packages them up as sets.

Prices are for EXCHANGE of useable injectors.

At times, we may have enough inventory in stock to sell outright.

Call 415 883-5620
  Injector Dept

Oil Additive

$30 / 4 oz bottle

Anti Friction
4 oz treats 3 to 5 qts synthetic oil

1. Choose your shipping method
As I recall -

We ran over 100 AMA and WERA bikes, we gained between 2% to 3% power.

The least I saw was 1% (JR's super loose built race engine) and the most I ever saw was 4% (on a super tight street  built engine).

The other 98 bikes picked up 2% to 3% power - with most 2% and  2.5%

Lasts 2 and up to 3 oil changes (tapering off in effect).

Helps highway mileage.


Evo Shift Kit Feedback
I have one, I can't compare the "with or without" performance of it - I installed it shortly after buying my 14 (during the break-in period). It will give positive shifts up or down at virtually ANY rpm (with or without clutch). I rarely use my clutch except to shift from like 2nd to 1st, or into 1st from neutral, and going to second (if I'm not blasting on the gas that is). I would say-get it-certainly hasn't hurt my transmission. And she does shift quite well.

 If ya do get it - that bolt that holds the star in there is VERY TIGHT! You will need to get a long shanked something in the head of it-and smack it with a hammer(before trying to loosen the allen). Also, get er up on a rear stand, instead of the kickstand-when ya pull the shift arm out to the left side there, oil's gonna go everywhere if she's sittin on her sidestand. Other than that-pretty easy to install. DO NOT FORCE THE CLUTCH BASKET BACK IN -if it isn't lining up and STRAIGHT-you'll play hell tryin to pull it back out to line it up for a second shot.
jollyroger 12/12/2009


Shift STAR Installation pics ZX14
(Thanks to Travis Fowler)

These are ROUGH and GENERAL and abbreviated clues - and NOT to be used without a genuine Kawasaki Service manual for proper assembly.

Tools, Partial list
5mm allen wrench
1/2" air or electric impact wrench
27mm and 30mm  1/2" drive socket
external circlip pliers (small / medium size)
Pliers, needle nose and regular


Remove clutch cover.

Only a few drops of oil will come out.

Now, you can see the outer clutch plate, with the 5 clutch spring mounting screws (pink, today)

Remove the clutch spring bolts.

After removing the 5 clutch spring screws, gently pull away the outer plate.

Some clutch plates will probably stick to the outer, but that's ok.

This is a radial "Torrington" bearing on the "mushroom" shaped "clutch throwout button.

Note: There is a "thrust" washer still stuck on the inside of the outer clutch plate.

Remove the 27mm or 30mm nut from the clutch shaft. Use a 1/2" air or electric impact wrench.

Remove the "Bellview"  washer and flat plate washer and the rest of the clutch plates (fiber and steel).

Here's a view of the clutch basket.

Hmmm...... just pull it out... Hey! It hits the cases and I can't!!

Here's where it hits - just below this screw hole.


Insert a 4mm screw into this clutch collar - leave the head exposed.

Now, grab the head of the screw and pull the collar out -

Then, gently remove the bearing, too.

Now you have enough space to move the clutch basket to the left and that makes enough room for the big primary gear to clear the engine case.


Plenty of room to work with.

LAY A SHOP RAG AT THE BOTTOM OF THE AREA to prevent screws, arms, collars from falling into the crankcase.
(our mechanic is perfect and he doesn't have to because he never drops anything)

Now - go to the left side of the bike.......

Now, remove the 10mm headed bolt from the shift lever
(don't you hate it when they put the bolt in from the bottom and it can fall out when it's loose? Oh! Never happened to you? :-)

Then -

With circlip pliers, remove the shift shaft retaining circlip and plate washer and don't loose them.

Slide the shift shaft out.

Remove the detent arm pivot bolt.

(this bike had a Shift STAR kit previously installed, so we will just pretend that we are removing the stock grey shift star and "non-bearinged" detent arm....)

Here's the detent arm removed.

The stock shift spring probably has pink paint on it.

Remove the stock grey star. Use a 5mm allen wrench.

Stock grey shift star removed.

Install the new gold plated Factory Pro STAR.

Use a bit of loctite on the screw. 6-8 ftlbs torque.

Hand assemble the new Factory Pro Detent Arm and the new Factory Pro performance spring.

Make sure you re-use the stock spacer collar.

Ahh! All assembled and happy.

It takes a few minutes to get the detent arm lined up and tightened. Make sure you don't bind and bend the arm when installing.
It'll take some finagling and pliers and flat bladed screwdrivers

Use a drop of loctite type threadlocker on the screw.

Slide in the shift shaft.

Replace the shift shaft plate washer and circlip.

Replace the shift lever and bolt.

Check the shifting - between 1st and neutral and make sure that things look right and feel OK.

It's a Kawasaki so you can't shift to 2nd unless the bike is rolling.

Basket on - Make sure to rough align it with the oil pump gear (behind primary gear, lower right, 5 o'clock position)


Slide in the clutch shaft bearing and spacer collar (the one with the 4mm screw holes).

Wiggle the basket a bit and it will get "1/2" aligned and in somewhat... Don't force it.

The 14 has a "split" primary gear and you have 1/2 of it aligned.

Now, use something like a #3 Phillips screwdriver in the alignment hole to align the primary gears and the clutch basket will slide right in.

Slide the inner clutch hub in.

Install the:

1. Thick flat washer

2. Domed "Belleville" lock washer (domed inner surface to the outside, towards you)

3. 27mm or 30mm nut to hold it all together.

27mm or 30mm nut torque: 100 ft-lb or 135 nm (thanks Kyrre Hydahl, Norway for the torque specs)

4. Install "clutch pusher", Torrington bearing and thrust washer (still in the inner clutch hub?)

5. Replace clutch plates:
first, the skinny fiber plate, then...
the flat steel ring, then the angled steel ring.

6. then a steel, then alternate fiber and steel till the last fiber and it's outer tangs are lined up to the "short, alternate outer groove". See below picture.

Install the outer clutch hub plate.

Install the clutch springs and bolts.
(do NOT overtorque or you will break the screw post!!)
(6-8 ftlbs is correct)


(note: this is the original disassembly picture - Use hand tools to tighten up the cover screws - NOT an impact wrench!)

Project bike: Travis Fowler / Las Vegas

R&D Race Head Gasket

R&D Megacycle Drop-in Intake Cam (uses stock valve springs)

Remove TB Secondaries

R&D and manufacture Shift STAR Kit
(done, see above to purchase)

Factory Pro Shift STAR

Megacycle prototype Drop-in intake cam

Megacycle prototype Drop-in intake cam - the red is Redline Assembly lube

Megacycle prototype Drop-in intake cam




My bible
Absolutely NO carb parts sold in California.

New and improved
Suzuki Teka SFI 2
with new TPS display and "MMT" Memory Module Tuner feature

Finally - Quick, easy, cost effective Suzuki tuning with no expensive "add-on boxes"
Suzuki cruisers and sportbikes

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Contact Factory Pro
M-F, 9am - 5pm, Pacific time, -7 or -8 GMT

800 869-0497
 USA and Canada

415 883-5620

no fax

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