yz250f 01-13wr250f 01-13
Factory Pro's Shift STAR kit - help prevent missed shifts and damage caused by missed shifts.
Shown with optional 004-0601 spring.
07-13 (14 is different)
(inc STAR, 3xk Arm and DOES NOT INCLUDE CLUTCH COVER GASKETS)
Feed back to
"How's it working? Aug 2012
Yes, works great! It's a must have item. 5th gear used to only last me about a month due to missed shifts, now I'm going on 3 months since my last rebuild.
Sault Sainte Marie, MI
z95-004-0601 F-Pro Shift Spring $29.95
(inc shift spring only)
replaces 90508-26561 stock spring
spring also fits:
yz450f 03-05 *
wr450f 03-06 *
yz426f 00-02 *
wr426f 01-02 *
yz400f 98-99 *
yz250f wr250f Evo Shift STAR Kit
"99.7%" eliminate missed shifts.
The EVO Shift STAR Upgrade kit will upgrade your bike to the latest, greatest shift action.
Perfect for when you are tired of paying attention to shifting and just want it to shift right. MX. SM, Desert, trail -
Virtually eliminate missed shifts - Shifts 5mm to 10ms quicker
Make shifting MUCH
quicker and virtually eliminate missed shifts. Helps address
missed shifts caused by poor shift detent "star" profile.
The Factory Pro Shift STAR kit is an awesome upgrade for the Yamaha.
Installation: Slightly more complicated than replacing the clutch basket.
No case splitting required.
Yamaha Shift Star kit worked awesome! Not one missed shift all weekend. Easier to find neutral, too - Which is good because I have to put it in neutral to start it for some reason. Doesn't like to start with the clutch in. With the close ratio tranny, I did a lot of shifting.
Leigh Thomas - Mojave area
Keihin FCR Carb Recalibration Kits - patented Factory Pro HDJ style
WR and YZ250f till 02
Feedback June 2018
Previously was using xxxx Jetting :#45 pilot, ps 1.75 turns, Red needle/5, #175 main . Ran pretty good. First step just changed to EMU tube, BIG improvement, next you suggested titanium needle which I did along with #135 main. I had already adjusted float height to 9mm .
So I ended up with this: #40 pilot, ps 1.5 turns, needle/4,
#135main. No MAJ mod, you suggested don't do it at first. The bike
felt good, crisper and smoother than ever before, over the whole
Just started riding again after 2 years. no time to ride
with work and helping our son, done some more testing and found that
#135 main was too lean , went to a #140 main, way more power upper
range, eventually settled on #142 main. No access to one of your
dynos , just seat of my pants and plug chop to help verify my pants
dyno. Even tried #155 main ( all I had at the time that was closest
to #142 ) it was way way rich and less top end.
I still have to go back and check needle position and pilot circuit and fuel screw. Your kit is the best I have ever used and I have tried a lot of combinations over the past 7 or 8 years. Can I get away without the MAJ mod? Is there any other info you can offer me with what iv'e tried so far as to help with fine tuning and set up?
I will try send previous correspondence to help add to this E-mail.
Thanks for your time Marc, I really appreciate it. Your kit is really good.
Marc, First I want to thank you for the quick reply, you guys are the best.
The '04' yz250f with your kit seemed to make a huge difference from mid throttle to wide open, and same with the '06'
The CRF450r flat out screamed on top. Amazing!
The '08' CRF250r
seemed to make the most improvement in the mid throttle range, the guy was in a hurry to get to a race and I only made recommended changes with one test ride (for me not enough testing) but I talked to him a cpl. weeks ago and he said it was running great.
I agree with you, I don't know why more mx'ers don't use your kits - they are hands down the
pinnacle in jet kits.......
...... So can you help me out with the '07' Rmz-250, my son is getting faster moving to the intermediates and
needs more power.
Your #1 fan,
05 rmz450 52+ int.
Titanium needle, patented tuning components and Stainless steel allen screws for the float bowls. Adds more low-end esp. - and especially more mid and topend power - easier than other kits to install and fine tune.
This kit is significantly
the usual dealership level dyno developed kits that are more
For us - it's been interesting - I got, from one the off-road guys who owns a 3 letter abbreviation off road parts supply company, "What are you saying? That you can jet better than Xxxxx Xxxxx?"
Well, actually - yes,
maybe we can tune carbs better than Xxxxx Xxxxx.....
So.... This kit will produce about 5% to 8% / 2 True HP better than any other carb kit for the Yam 250 - and the bog that was associated with the Yam 250 is pretty much gone under most conditions.
Keep in mind, though, you still can't be putzing around at 2000 rpm and expect the engine to accept full throttle - That would take a CV type carb - and not an FCR - but at least, you can snap the throttle to 1/2 - 3/4 open and not get a bog -
This kit could never have been
developed on a dynojet dyno.
Dude, my bike freakin' rips now !! I thought it ran great before. Way better now. Our jet kit rocks! Leigh Thomas - Factory Pro Tuning - March 14, 2011 w/290cc kit
Dear Factory Pro,
Chris - I'd expect that you'd be about 2 main jets smaller than sea level (~1 main per 1500ft, the old Salvisberg rule). Because you've changed the exhaust cam, though - that can change jetting requirements - up or down -
If you've got the main jet installed that makes best topend power, the needle height that delivers the best 50% and 75% throttle opening topend power, the float height setting for best topend power at 25% throttle opening and the pilot jet setting that delivers best idle and teeny throttle opening response - then you are done - Good job!
<CHUCKLE!> You can see how someone who doesn't know jetting could get flustered, neglect to fine tune and decide a jet kit (when thrown in at base settings) "doesn't work"!!
Best regards - Marc
Initial response/hard pull right from the bottom all the
way to the top. Two other guys that ride an 04 and a 05 both rode it
and said the same. Low end pull seemed to be the "big thing" but all
said it was stronger all the way through. All three are experienced
road racers and one is a long time hare scrambler so I trust their "Levi's
I'm not at work to check - but... Great! What did he mention, specifically? Happy Easter!
Everybody dies! Only some of us really live!!!
patented HDJ MAJ installation for crf / wr / yzf
Keihin FCR carbs
Where's my main air jet and what do I do with that drill bit and tap that came in my Factory Pro HDJ kit for my Keihin FCR carb?
First step is to eliminate the fixed main air jet restriction.
Remove the stock emulsion tube (that's what the main jet screws into) so that you can clean out the carb well. By only having 45mm to 46mm of the drill bit exposed, it prevents you from drilling too far.
Then, use the supplied tap from our HDJ carb kit, thread the Main
Air Jet (aka "MAJ") hole.
Clean the hole, of course.
After it's clean, complete the MAJ Modification by installing the supplied Main Air Jet and installing the new Factory Pro HDJ Emulsion Tube.
This modification is something similar to what we've done in many
different carb types over the years, though it might be new to some
who haven't used our "1.7-RK" carb kits before.
Yamahas yz250f and yzf450f Shift STAR Installation
|Remove the clutch cover.||Remove the clutch
(use your shop manual)
|Remove the little top hat collar and don't lose it.|
|Pinch the pawls together and gently remove the pawl holder. Hold around the outside so the pawls, springs and plungers stay together.|
|Turn the star till it reaches
the stop (it's either 6th or 1st gear). Turn the clutch shaft to get
it to go into the "next" gear.
Unscrew the center stud - it takes a deep 12mm socket.
|Use a 10mm socket and remove
the 6mm pivot bolt for the stock detent arm.
|This is what comes out.
You will replace the detent arm and the spring with new Factory Pro parts.
|Put in the new Factory Pro
Microbearing Detent Arm and new heavier duty spring.
A good hint is to Loctite the pivot bolt with Blue Loctite. Not absolutely required, but a nice touch.
|Lever the arm out and slip in......|
|the new Factory Pro Detent STAR. Install the center stud.|
|There's the new detent arm and the new preproduction detent STAR.|
|Here's how the shift pawl holder
These are the spring loaded plungers.
|Next, install the pawls.|
|Squeeze the pawls in and slip into the ID of the Detent STAR.|
|Absolutely NO carb parts sold in California.|
New and improved
Finally - Quick, easy, cost effective
with no expensive "add-on boxes"
fax 415 492-8803
Support /Tech SECTION
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|The extension of the laboratory
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