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Thermostat
Trickery
To prevent
inconsistent
carburetion due
to over cooling
Thermostats,
Suzuki,
watercooled
Bandit 400
and 600
92-93 gsxr600
93-95 gsxr750
93-98 gsxr1100
and more
SCHMIGGY6@aol.com
wrote:
I HAVE TWO
QUESTIONS:
FIRST, I HAVE A
94 RF900R WITH A
V&H SS2R SLIP-ON
AND A K&N
FILTER, AS WELL
AS A STAGE I
KIT. THE BIKE
RUNS GREAT AND I
WANT TO KNOW IF
AN IGNITION
ADVANCE WOULD DO
ME ANY GOOD
(WHAT WILL ONE
DO?) ALSO DO YOU
HAVE ANY DYNO
INFO ON A RF900?
SECOND, MY
GIRLFRIEND HAS A
93 BANDIT 400
THAT HAS ALWAYS
HAD POOR
CARBURETION. WE
ARE CONSIDERING
A STAGE I KIT
AND POSSIBLY A
NEW
PIPE/FILTER/ADVANCE
COMBINATION AS
WELL. DO YOU
HAVE ANY DYNO
INFO ON THIS
BIKE AND HAS IT
BEEN YOUR
EXPERIENCE THAT
THESE MACHINES
HAVE SUCH POOR
JETTING FROM THE
FACTORY?
THANKS , AND
GREAT WEB
SITE!!!!!!!!!!
SCHMIGGY6@AOL.COM
The 400 Bandit?
Part of the
problem is, like
ALL of the
93-95ish
watercooled
Suzukis (and
other
carbureted,
watercooled
bikes), that
it's got a very
low temperature
coolant
thermostat
~175f, or so.
Makes them seem
to run lean and
not idle well
when the fuel
screws are set
for best idle
after a good,
fully warmed up
bike ride.
Install a
higher temp
thermostat from,
perhaps a 185f
one from a
cbr600f3.
We used a
Stant brand 195f
thermostat,
which is a bit
higher than the
f3, but 185f to
195f is where
the engine runs
the best and
makes the best
power.
And, the
carburetion will
stay consistent
if you keep it
at or above
185f. 175f is
just too cold to
keep the fuel
atomized.
Either way,
changing the
thermostat is
mandatory. Then
you can tune the
carbs for best
throttle
response and
power with the
carb kit. The
bike will be
much less
sensitive to
weather, too.
The magic
195f thermostat
is the exact
44mm diameter as
the original and
is STANT brand
pn: 13849.
(edited October
23, 2000)
We used a 195g
Tstat and that
worked
perfectly. Like
I said, It won't
make it run any
hotter, it will
just not run too
cool.
Be sure to
drill 1 stock
sized hole in
the new
thermostat to
allow a low
water flow rate
when the
thermostat is
closed. It's not
so much for
bleeding - it's
more for even
temperature
control -
Otherwise it's
"open, close,
open, close"
instead of
"mostly close,
open, mostly
close".
Read the email
below for the
story of that.
A a 185f or
195f won't make
the bike run too
hot, it will
just keep it
from running too
cool when just
cruising around
- like summer in
foggy San
Francisco - that
is, south of the
Golden Gate
Bridge 'cause
it's warmer by
15f-20f 10 miles
to the north.
The
CRB-S41-1.0 Carb
Recal Kit will
work much better
- cleaner and
more responsive
everywhere.
There is no
ignition advance
available.
Date:
Sun, 22 Oct 2000
17:25:01 -0400
From:
"Ed Henderson"
<ehenderson1@carolina.rr.com>
To:
<factory2@ix.netcom.com>
thank you,
and some
feedback
Date: Sun,
22 Oct 2000
17:25:01 -0400
From: "Ed
Henderson"
<ehenderson1@carolina.rr.com>
To:
<factory2@ix.netcom.com>
Greetings
Just a quick
note to say
"thanks" for the
quality and
quantity of
useful tech info
on your site.
I've recently
picked up a
used/neglected
'96 GSXR 1100;
the carbs had
been brutalized
by one hack or
another and the
bike ran very
poorly.
Installation of
your S42-1.0 kit
(bought through
Dennis Kirk, if
ya care) has put
everything back
to right.
One of your tech
pages-
http://www.factorypro.com/tech/tecthermosuz.html
- was
particularly
intriguing and
helpful; I've
followed the
tech tip and
hopefully can
offer a little
feedback on what
I found:
The Stant 13849
was easy to find
at a local parts
store and was
indeed a direct
fit. Installing
it straight out
of the box
certainly had an
effect on the
indicated engine
temp, but the
results needed a
little
optimization...
there were large
oscillations
from barely-warm
to way-too-hot
that never
really
stabilized; I
suspected that
the system was
airbound and had
to go to Plan B.
Since the OEM
thermostat had
bleed holes
(total 5x) in
the mounting
flange and
valve, I added
3x holes to the
flange only
using a #34
drill (about the
same 0.113" size
as the factory
had used). This
proved to be too
much of a good
thing... once
again the engine
didn't really
seem to be
running on the
thermostat, with
readings barely
above those
shown using the
stock
thermostat.
Soldering up two
of the holes-
and installing
the thermostat
with the sole
remaining bleed
hole oriented at
12 o'clock-
seems to be the
charmed answer:
temp comes up
quickly then
stays in a very
narrow range
about one-third
of the way up
the needle
sweep.
Anyway, thanks
again for the
info. Your "CV
carb tuning"
page has also
been of great
help over the
last couple of
years while I've
been working
with another
brand of jet kit
in my Bandit
1200; when the
Gixxer came
around I was
determined that
I'd try to pay
ya back by using
your products.
Regards,
Ed Henderson
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