pn: RTR-SUZ-37-XX  -  ignition mount plate install and tech

gsxr600 99-05 (06-07 is same part, but it's mounted in the RH engine cover)
gsxr750 98-05 (06-07 is same part, but it's mounted in the RH engine cover)
gsxr1000, 01-07

tools required:
5mm allen wrench
#2 philips screwdriver
medium flatbladed screwdriver
Razor blade or Exacto knife
gasket sealant
14mm socket
air wrench

A look in.

Location of ignition trigger mounting plate on:

gsxr600, 97-01 (and similar)
gsxr750, 96-01 (and similar)
gsxr1000, 01(and similar)

1. Remove the outer "palm sized" small starter cover   (already removed).

2. Remove the inner, larger starter clutch cover (already removed). Remember, there is a screw in the upper left of the inner cover that is not accessible until the small, outer cover is removed. You will probably reuse the gasket

3. Remove the starter clutch bolt with a 14mm air wrench (that's the easiest and quickest way).

4. Remove the original ignition plate from the engine cases with a #2 Phillips screwdriver. (it's under the starter clutch gear)


5. With a flatbladed screwdriver, remove the ignition trigger coil from the original mounting plate and reinstall it onto the new Factory Pro ignition plate.
Be careful NOT to stab yourself with the screwdriver!

Note: The gold center core plate (at B, down arrow) of the coil assembly MUST extent "proud" of the surrounding off-white epoxy area when installed and tightened. There is a small amount of play to adjust with, and it must project outwards, towards the ignition rotor, usually ~.005" to .010".  (In other words, a real little bit)
If the center core is below the off-white surrounding area, the voltage produced will detrimentally affect the ignition system and make the engine difficult or impossible to start.

6. After installing the trigger coil to the ignition plate, temporarily reinstall the starter clutch and bolt and rotate the engine so that rotor projection at B, up arrow is aligned with the trigger coil (so you can measure the trigger coil clearance).

7. Install A-1phillips screw, snug. Install  A-2 Phillips screw and snug down.

8. Measure the clearance at B. It should be .015" to .020". Adjust by loosening A-1 and A-2 and pushing the plate towards the rotor. Tighten screws when done.
.040" pickup coil to ignition rotor clearance will make the engine difficult or impossible to start.

2.  So - you cracked the magnet because you didn't line up the locating hole......
     It's OK - just put the 2 pieces together and retighten the 2 flat bladed screws. Lucky you!


dynoroom,onramp,toright.jpg (198084 bytes)

Question: If .040" clearance will make the engine difficult to start, and .020 starts well, is .010" better? Haven't had time to test that, yet...

9. Check the tightness of the coil plate screws, reinstall the ignition plate. Use a bit of light strength thread locking compound on the screws if you want, for a good job.

10. Reinstall the starter clutch and mounting bolt. BE SURE to line up the indexing marks on the crankshaft end and the starter clutch or the TDC marks will be wrong and that could cause big problems if using the TDC marks to adjust the valves later.....

11. Reinstall the covers (don't forget the screw under the small cover). Replace or reseal gaskets as necessary.

12. You should not have any parts left over, except for the old ignition plate.

    True Rear Wheel HP  measurement on the EC997!