Yamaha ysf1000 R1, 07-08
Factory Pro Velocity Stacks installation hints
We'll start with the assumption that you already can competently remove the fuel tank and replace an air filter. If you aren't confident that you can do that, stop right now and get an experienced friend or pay a good shop...........
 

Remove airbox top.

Unbolt stock upper stacks.

Remove original stack linkages. The primary round actuating arm pops off the flat arm on the servo motor.
The flat arm has a round ball that pops into a plastic socket on the round arm.
You can leave the servo motor in place (it's really not a "servo", it's only an open / close 12 volt solenoid).

Unscrew  6 lower stack mounting screws.

Remove the stock stacks;.

Remove original velocity stack bolts.

They press out. Model mechanic is using the handle of a Bondhus Balldriver.

Save all old parts.

There is a Right and a Left flat bracket. CHECK NOW to make sure you have 2 different brackets.

Place 2 of the Factory Pro stacks and 1 bracket into the airbox, aligning the stacks to the throttle bodies and the 3 mounting holes to the throttle body mounting holes.

The longer "100" stack goes into the middle and shorter "85" to the outside.

Repeat for the other two stacks and bracket.

Put a drop of MILD Loctite (blue or green - not "red") on each screw and Insert the 3 stock mounting screws into the bracket holes. If a screw were to come out, it would be very bad for your engine.    USE LOCTITE

Hint:
Use a magnet to lower the screws into the installed bracket holes, unless you have very long fingers.

Gently hand snug, then, tighten to 6 ft lbs  / 8 nm torque, using a 120 crisscross pattern.

Repeat for the other 2 stacks.
 

Reassemble airbox lid, etc. Use your Service manual to make sure you don't forget anything

Notes - Corrections - suggestions? email here
So - the hard part, installing the stacks, is done.

Yes - we always suggest that you use a Genuine Yamaha Service Manual. It's the LAST WORD.


With new Superflaretm stacks -  Is fuel injection retuning needed?

We did the R1 Superflaretm R&D with a properly tuned stock R1. We did no additional fuel injection mapping during R1 stack R&D.

The added power that we got in the upper mid and peak was due to the stacks alone.

Factory Pro Velocity Stacks work primarily by increasing the engine's dynamic compression - kind of like milling the cylinder head or slightly higher compression pistons over a range of desired rpm ranges. Increasing compression doesn't require big fuel changes. Dynamic compression is different from cranking compression. Dynamic compression is essentially cranking compression + extra air that gets trapped in the combustion chamber as a result of proper intake tract (velocity stack) length, intake cam closing and also the effects of the exhaust systems in a RUNNING engine.
Dynamic compression effects are also related to rpm ranges - as intake ram charging; commonly occurs strongest over a 3000 to 3500 rpm range. (usually....)

Could you get better performance if custom mapping for the stacks?
Well, yes and maybe no.
If you tune your R1 "to an air fuel ratio" on a dealership level dyno, you are virtually guaranteed to miss some potential power in the real world.

To put it another way, drop them on a stock engined bike and woohoo.
Tune it to an "af ratio" on a dealership level dyno and MAYBE less woohoo.

Proper tuning requires that the engine be tuned to Best Power and Engine Smoothness. There is potentially a difference of 2-4 True HP s compared to "af ratio".