Very good user install write up cbr600f4, cbr600f4i, cbr600rr 2003 to 2010
original link:
http://www.twowheelforum.com/showthread.php?t=23877
Author, contact factory pro:
info@factorypro.com
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Annoyed by the clunky shifts and
long throw of the gear shifter
on your F4i (or other bikes
too)?? Hate it when you get one
of those 'missed shifts'?? This
fairly simple mod aims to
correct these issues! This
involves the replacement of the
shift star, detent arm, and
detent spring. The replacement
parts are made by Factory Pro,
and uses a modified shift
star, micro roller bearing
detent arm, and a slightly
heavier detent spring over
stock. This mod makes a very
noticeable difference in shift
feel, making for nice clean,
crisp, and faster shifts I made this as detailed as I could, although I left out a few things in the pics but I'll explain as best I can Bikes * Any 01-06 F4i specifically. Probably very similar for others Tools and Materials Required * 30mm impact socket (1/2" drive) * Impact gun STRONGLY recommended (electric or air, doesn't matter) * 5mm and 6mm HEX head sockets (also called allen head) * 8mm and 10mm sockets (1/4" drive) * 10mm, 12mm, and 14mm sockets (3/8" drive) * Short 1/2" drive extension * 6 inch 3/8" extension * 6 inch 1/4" extension * 1/4" and 3/8" hand ratchets * in-Lb torque wrench (3/8" drive) capable of 108 in-lbs * ft-Lb torque wrench (1/2" drive) capable of 94 ft-lbs * Medium sized flathead screwdriver * 3+ lb hammer * Rubber mallet (or rubber or wooden handle from regular hammer works too) * Hondabond or equivalent GREY silicone gasket maker (must have high oil resistance!!) * Brake parts cleaner * Silicone gasket remover (not completely necessary, but helps) * Blue loc-tite * Digital caliper or micrometer (optional for measuring clutch discs and springs) * Oil drain pan * Clean engine oil (and oil filter too... might as well) * Lots of shop rags * Clutch center holder tool (optional special tool). Honda P/N 07724-0050002 - not needed if using impact wrench. Time Required: Depends on skill level, but for most mechanically inclined people, and especially those that are very anal and picky about everything, I'd allow a good part of an afternoon to complete The Kit
  Step 1 Drain the engine oil. Make sure the bike is in neutral
 Step 3 -Remove the 8mm bolt and remove the clutch cable from the release arm -Unplug the red 2P crankshaft position sensor connector
 -Then it may be necessary to gently tap the cover with the mallet from the backside to break the seal, then remove the clutch cover
 Step 5 *** IMPORTANT *** Place shop rags over openings to oil pan... parts WILL drop!!! -Remove the (5) 10mm bolts and springs from the clutch pressure plate
 Step 6 -Inspect the lifter release bearings for wear or damage. Make sure all roller balls are present and move freely and smoothly
 Step 7 -One by one, remove each clutch friction disc and steel disc. Place in a pile (somewhere clean) face down in the order that you take them out. After the last friction disc is removed, remove the friction spring and spring seat that will be in the back of the basket. Be sure and check the pressure plate when you take it out, that the first couple discs don't stick to it. Clutch discs and steel plates have already been removed in picture. You should have: eight clutch discs (friction), seven clutch plates (steels), one spring seat, and one friction spring
 Step 8 -Using a flathead screwdriver or chisel, and a hammer, unstake the nut as much as possible -Using the 30mm socket, and either an impact gun or breaker bar, remove the clutch center nut. If you don't have the clutch center holder tool, the easiest way to hold the clutch center from turning is to shift into 5th or 6th gear (you'll have to use one hand to turn the clutch center as you shift through the gears to make them mesh). Once you get in gear, use your foot to step down hard on the rear brake pedal as you remove the nut. It's easy with an impact gun, much harder with a breaker bar. After the nut is removed before removing the clutch center, shift the transmission back to neutral. Again it will be necessary to spin the clutch center back and forth as you shift through the gears. It will spin freely once you get to neutral
 Step 9 -Remove the clutch outer basket. This is kind of tricky and hard to describe... there's 2 gears on the crankshaft that mesh with the gear on the outer shell, called 'scissor gears'. They are not aligned with each other and make the clutch outer rather tight to get out and back in. You need to turn the crank until you see a small hole in the gear on the crank, and stick a screwdriver in the hole and then hold tension on the crank to make the 'scissor gears' align with each other, so that you can remove and install the clutch outer This is what you'll now see
 Now here's the parts that will be changed
 -Remove the 6mm hex bolt from the shift star (also referred to as the gearshift cam), and remove the shift star Parts comparison -- Factory Pro EVO shift star kit on left, OEM on right Front
 Step 12 -Install the new detent arm, spring, and washer. Torque the bolt to 108 in-lbs (9 ft-lbs)
 -Using a flathead screwdriver, hold the detent arm up while you install the shift star. I forgot to take a picture, but there is a dowel on the shaft that the shift star bolts to. Align the hole on the back of the shift star with the dowel on the shaft. This can take several tries and can be a little tricky... just be patient and keep trying, and you must push it in firmly for it to seat properly. You can tell when the dowel is in the hole when you rotate it back and forth you can feel the shift forks moving around -Once in place, tighten the bolt to 204 in-lbs (17 ft-lbs)
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Step 15
-Hold the spindle to keep from pushing it back out, and re-attach the gearshift linkage to the spindle. Align the punch mark on the spindle with slit in the linkage
 ***** STOP HERE!!!!! VERY IMPORTANT!!! ***** Before going any further with reassembly, verify that all the gear change correctly. CYCLE THROUGH ALL THE GEARS, UP AND DOWN!! Start in neutral, and make sure you have all 6 gears in the correct pattern. If it doesn't seem right, IT ISN'T!! If it doesn't shift normally, something is off with the shift star. Go back and recheck your work, and repeat until it's right. Remember you'll need to turn the transmission input shaft (the one that the clutch inner splines onto) as you shift through the gears to allow them to mesh. If everything feels good, proceed to step 16 Step 16 -Inspect these needle bearings on the clutch outer basket for missing, worn, or damaged needle bearings
 Step 17 -Install the large washer
 Step 18 -Take special note of which way you install the lock washer. Make sure the OUT marking is facing you, and install the washer
 -Place the transmission back into neutral. This is now a good time to turn the 14mm bolt on the crankshaft and spin the engine over by hand several times to make sure everything turns smoothly without any problems Step 19 ** Skip if you're installing a new clutch ** -Using a digital caliper or micrometer, measure the thickness of the clutch friction discs. Service limit: 2.6mm (hey mine are still in spec after 115k miles... not bad!)
 Step 20 -Install the spring seat first and then the friction spring onto the clutch center. The friction spring is angled, and when installed the outer edge of the spring should be pointing outwards, and inner edge of the spring pointing inwards -If the clutch discs and plates are OK and being re-used, or if installing a new clutch, generously coat or soak each clutch disc and plate with clean engine oil
 Step 22 -Install the pressure plate and lifter piece
 Step 23 -Using brake parts cleaner and/or silicone gasket remover, remove any residual silicone from both crankcase mating surface and clutch cover mating surface. Use a plastic scraper if necessary. Clean throughly with brake parts cleaner to make sure both surfaces are free of dirt, grease, and oil -Using Hondabond or 3 Bond 1104 or equivalent grey oil resistant gasket sealant, apply a bead around the diameter of the clutch cover
 ^^^ I probably used a little too much... I always go a lil overboard with the sealant, haha Step 24 -Install the clutch cover. This can take several tried due to the dowels and the clutch release arm, which you may have to play with a little bit to get the cover on all the way. Use the rubber mallet if necessary to 'gently' tap on the cover and make it pop into place -Install the clutch cable onto the release arm -Install and snug all of the 8mm bolts. Tighten the right upper corner first, then left upper corner, then right lower, then left lower. After those 4, tighten the remaining in a criss cross pattern until all bolts are tight. For some reason, the manual does not give a torque spec for these bolts, so use your own judgment on how tight to tighten them
 Step 26 -Re-install the right side fairing -Fill the crankcase with 3.5 qts of a quality oil of your choice -Change the oil filter
 Step 27 -After letting it run for a little bit and double checking everything and making sure there are no oil leaks (clutch cover, gearshift spindle on the left side near the linkage, ect), go for a test ride
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-Jared ::::: Black/Red '04 CBR 600 F4i - 128,700 miles and kicking strong 
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